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Old Nov 15th, 2013, 08:11   #12
tosoutherncars
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Last Online: Jun 28th, 2017 05:13
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Ottawa
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Just to wrap this up...

Assembly is the reverse of removal, as Haynes would say. Once the cable was in, I tightened the gas tank back up, before reinstalling the exhaust (with a new middle hanger jerry-rigged from what I had on hand.)

I followed the break-in procedure for both the e-brake drums and the rear pads; a slow drive with the e-brake applied for the former, and a series of increasingly hard stops for the latter.

I didn't need to adjust the e-brake at all. (!) With everything hooked up and the adjusting nut all the way loose, the brake engages around the third click, and locks the car up tight around the 6-8th clicks. It will hold the car in Drive (no gas) on flat ground. Feels very solid.

No special tools were required; just the following:

- sockets (10-15mm mostly; 3/8" and 1/2" versions with several extensions and a wobble-joint)
- pliers, vice-grips (several), small pry bars
- Torx screwdrivers (T15, 20, 25 and I think 30)
- Flathead screwdrivers
- brake cleaner
- bearing grease

In all, it was a pain of a job; but doable, and a HUGE savings over what the garage (or God forbid, the dealer) would have charged. Just set aside a good couple of days just in case, get all your parts together first, and try to run the gas tank as empty as possible before starting!

In retrospect, I think the only things I would have done differently are: I would have ordered rear rotors, even though they weren't strictly needed in my case, and a new middle exhaust hanger, which I should have noticed was totally rusted through.

Speaking of the exhaust; I noticed when I dropped the muffler, that it had a couple of pinholes. One more thing to look for, the next time I'm at the scrappie! ;-) Or start saving up for...
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