Quote:
Originally Posted by ciaranr
Took mine apart and cleaned over the weekend, pre-cleaning pics attached. I reckon I got an egg-cup full of gunk out of the manifold, although the EGR valve itself wasn't too bad. Mine was impossible to separate, also.
I had the same experience as AAmbro, no turbo for a few minutes until suddenly it was back. It has stopped idling roughly, which was what I hoped for, but can't say I notice much other difference in the car, perhaps it's going a bit better below 1500 rpm though.
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Some folks think it's a turbo fault, just the ECU/MAP adjusting the injection system settings, OR turbo boost rate to the new cleaner intake and EGR. The same odd behaviour happens when you change a MAF, CAT or real bad air filter element. I think it takes about 20 minutes to self adjust. After that you get slightly better MPG AND faster throttle response. Even more power if it was a real gunge job.
One problem with some EGR's is that although a good engine might not foul the intake OR EGR (A bad turbo seal fouls the intake and bad rings, injectors or valve guide oil seals foul the EGR, as the intake is more oil than C and the EGR is much more C than oil ash) for 100K km plus, IF the wrong retaining screws have been used (Volvo only) and if they have used a very common cheap brass looking hex head bolt insted, say your prayers before trying to remove the EGR, because if one of those bolts shears due to corrosion, you will have a real long PITA job to get it out. That's why I'm not trying to remove my EGR until I get symptoms. I am getting the intake cleaned every 50K km though.
Warning: Saturday rant follows, so don't read!
Changing tack slightly, if your cylinders get some Carbon deposits, they will burn off fairly easily, BUT it takes a lot longer to burn an EGR or CAT clean of both Carbon and burnt oil ash (Zinc related oil additives are a very slight negative for the exhaust system). I've seen some real life test results on very badly fouled EGR's on truck diesels AND they take at least 10 hours at max continuous power to get real clean, down to just some very minor baked oil ash. It's an Expo curve, so only an hour or two makes a big difference to the EGR and CAT (Some cheap CAT's fail from corrosion in the longer term) if you can get the engine to max continuous power (4th gear only helps, but a very early Sunday morning motorway trip in good weather is more effective).
There are 3 W letters important with diesel engines as follows:
W for WOT (Wide Open Throttle)
W for WTF do you use for oil & filters
W for Why are you starting with your big boots on the pedals (30 second rule)
AND a B for
http://www.blackstone.com, as only a used oil analysis can give the best answer as to when to change the oil & filters for a particular block, detect early signs of an HG pin hole leak or the need to clean the injectors with a fuel additive (Might be never if you use good diesel fuel that has some Bio content). It will also warn you about bad types of oil (Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 5/40, which is a group 3 HC synthetic rated C3 by Acea, is one bad oil, as it doubled my wear rates, Oddly enough Castrol Magnetec 10/40 will give better results sometimes and even basic Mobil 10/40 will do better, so take pity on the poor DPF owners, whilst their exhaust system dumps fuel into their oil or runs up flame thrower fuel bills).