Quote:
Originally Posted by Laird Scooby
Bolting the bracket with the ATF lines in to the wing would definitely fracture them Alan! 
Think about it - the lines are bolted to the gearbox, the gearbox is bolted to the bellhousing which in turn is bolted to the back of the engine. When the engine moves on its mounts, so does the gearbox. That means the pipes do as well. That's why i said bolt the bracket onto the engine and let the rubber pipes take the flexing.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spark-Plu...E/202335512544
Those would work well to separate the pipes and make the bracket easier to make from a simple piece of 20 x 3mm flat bar. If you don't like the colour, have a look on ebay for "HT lead separators" or "Hydraulic hose clamps" |
I'd considered that, but this needs thinking about a bit Dave. At the moment the lines are bolted solidly to the radiator at one end - which is fixed to the chassis and doesn't move with the engine, the other end is fixed to the gearbox, but at a place close to the centre of rotation. The engine vibrates around quite a bit on the rubber mounts (that is what they are for), and at quite a high frequency (there seems to be a harmonic around 1000RPM, about 20Hz), I'm pretty sure that if I move the lines from their current fixed points on the radiator to a vibrating engine the steel lines will work harden and fail.
I need to think about this before I do anything. My first thought is to replicate what I have now and I know works: which is fix the ends of the lines as close to the radiator end as possible - to the chassis as it is now (and obviously leave the lines in the middle as they are now).
Do you still think the lines should be fixed to the engine?
Alan
PS. The line separators are nice - I'll get some of those, maybe use the outer races of the 4 way item to if necessary to get enough clearance for the compression fittings.
PPS. Changing the engine mounts whilst it is out would also be a good idea.