Quote:
Originally Posted by griston64
I was thinking of trying to fit this myself so would put the car on ramps in the garage.
What issues could i come accross ? access to bolts from downpipe to turbo ? Unable to undo bolts to turbo ( I have limited tools ) anything else ?
Cheers
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Make yourself some "WMP" - 50/50 acetone/synthetic ATF (Carlube ATF-U is good), give it a good shake before each use and keep it sealed between uses and trickle, spray or whatever onto the rusty fasteners on the turbo to downpipe nuts/bolts etc and ony others you find that need it. "WMP" is short for "weapon of Mass Penetration - makes WD40 look like glue in comparison!
Also some emery cloth, wire brush and similar to clean the mating faces of the turbo, downpipes, and so on, if your system has "U" clamps to clamp the sleeve type joins, obtain some washers to go on before the nuts - usually M8 with 13mm nuts on the clamps.
When it comes to actually fitting, if the sleeve-joins are reasonably tight/snug, use some copper grease to help them slip in and find their gas-tight position, if they're a bit loose, use some sealant such as Firegum, Gun-Gum or similar. Do NOT use sealant upstream of the cat, if it gets in the cat it will block it!
Sometimes it is much easier to leave the mounting bands loose on the silencers to get the bands hung in their rubbers, again copper grease or red rubber/silicone grease can help get the metal parts into the rubbers. Once the bands are in the mounting rubbers, get the box mounted loosely in them and everything connected up - DON'T tighten all the exhaust clamps etc at this stage, just finger tight.
Once everything is fitted and all clamps etc are finger tight, start the engine and working from front to back, just nip the nuts/bolts up so that there isn't a blow from that join. Do this evenly, a turn or two on each fastening then the opposite one until the join just stops blowing.
Once you reach the back and have nipped up the last join so it just stops blowing, give the tailpipe a shake in all directions to make sure that firstly it's straight and seated in the rubbers and secondly that there are no untoward knocks, rattles or similar where the system is making contact with the underbody at any point.
If all is well, start tightening the fastenings beginning with the bands that hold the silencers.
Then again, working from front to back, tighten all nuts/bolts etc evenly to the specified torque and in the abscence of torque figures, to what you feel is tight enough.
During all this, the engine and exhaust system will still be warming up so go careful with the toasty bits! However, as things expand when they get hot, the bolts etc will expand and stretch slightly, the sleeve-joins will expand slightly etc so as you tighten things up when hot, having made sure everything is lined up correctly, you will find the right gas-tight positions and get rid of any potential blows as they happen due to expansion from cold.
While this might seem a bit of a faff, it doesn't actually take that long to do (probably took me longer to type it) and pays enormous dividends in getting it leak-free first time and not knocking/rubbing on the underbody etc.
Good luck with it, let us know how it goes!
