Quote:
Originally Posted by nutco
How can you put this in to most red blocks as they recommend semi synthetic oil and this is a fully synthetic, I thought they are not supposed to mix
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It's part-synthetic that has difficulty mixing with mineral or fully synthetic. To understand the difference is fairly simple, semi-synthetic is a blend of mineral and synthetic oils, generally in about a 50/50 mix with the various additives added in afterwards.
Part synthetic is mineral oil with synthetic additives designed to work with mineral oil.
It goes much deeper and more technical than that, that's the simple version though!
It sounds very pedantic but presumably there's a reason for it! Daresay one of the people with more "oily" brains than mine can explain why etc.
Either way, adding synthetic ATF works wonders for sticking hydraulic tappets/lifters, clean the engine internally and helps revive leaking seals. I've got some in my 760 at the moment because i used some oil that turned out (despite the labeling) to be recycled and it developed a minor leak from the rear crank oil seal. So far it seems to be easing so fingers crossed i caught it in time!
I also regularly run my Rover 827 with between 0.5-1.0L of synth ATF in with the oil, they have a reputation for being slightly tappety, not entirely undeserved in some cases but it keeps the hydraulic tappets clean and working as intended. I also had a Jeep Cherokee 4.0 a few years back with 3 very bad hydraulic tappets, sounded like 3 mini pile-drivers inside the engine block! As that took 6.8L of oil on the oil change, i put a litre of synth ATF in first then added a full 5L tub of oil plus some from another tub i used for topping up.
Less than 1000 miles later, it was smoother, more resonsive, more powerful and economical and above all, silent!