Thanks Alan, and apologies to loki for not reading what you wrote properly! I've ordered one of those oil filter tools from Amazon, where it was a little cheaper, hopefully good enough. And I ordered the brake fluid testing pen on ebay, Alan - great for the price - and we'll be looking at the engine/ gearbox mounts, brake pads etc to see.
Loki - I'll send a pm if that's the best way to communicate - I'd like to take you up on the offer of a loan on the locking device. And thanks again.
I found this video which, once you've got everything else removed, seems quite clear on fitting a new timing belt:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eIFWUbSZTw
Actually, he uses a different method to take the pressure off the tensioner, but happy to go with the wrench if that's best.
A few questions:
1. Is it best to replace the seals even if they look to be working properly? I'm not looking for work, but is it one of those jobs you just do because you have the cover and belt off?
2. In the videos I've watched, they don't seem to go through the process of checking the alignment of the number one spark plug terminal on the distributor housing, as instructed in the Haynes manual. If the marks on the three cogs align with the marks on the engine block, have you already achieved TDC? Or are the videos just skipping that necessary step?
3. Is my engine interference cylinder head, or non-interference?! Just checking in case we get things wrong - different sites say different things, Haynes says the B230
is interference.
At the moment, in addition to tools, all I think we need to order is the timing belt and maybe some fluid for the radiator. Where is it best to buy the belt, and suggestions?
Thanks again
C