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RichT4 · Dec 22nd, 2013, 10:19

Hello,

This is purely here as a guide for when you want to remove the Standard head unit and replace it with a more updated aftermarket one.

I couldn't get hold of the wiring harness adapter 'on the day' so i thought i'd study the wiring diagrams and convert the standard head unit wiring (shown below) to the ISO connectors.

When taking a look at the wiring diagram, you'll notice the letters denoting colours, these are listed below:

BL - BLUE
BN - BROWN

GN - GREEN
GR - GRAY

OR - ORANGE
P - PINK

R - RED
SB - BLACK

VO - VIOLET
W - WHITE

Y - YELLOW

In the wiring diagram, page 140 is where you'll need to direct your attention:

On your new ISO connectors they should be labeled to show which is which, so cut, strip and either solder or crimp to join the new cables on ending up with this:

Large Red = Common live
Brown and White = Ignition live/remote
Large Black = Earth

These are the only ones i've used to ensure that the radio is useable.

The other cables i have left out because they aren't essential to the Radios operation, unless you wish to dim the radio or boost the aerial signal; in which case these link to the Central Electrical Module (CEM).

Moving onto the speaker arrangement; you'll notice that there are only 8 wires going into the connector. These are arranged so that the positive and negative are side by side rather than above and below each other.

Once you have 'amended' these you will be left with this:

Brown + and white - for the drivers side front
Green/yellow + and Gray - Passenger side front

Yellow/black + and Green/black - to Passenger Rear speaker

Yellow + and Green/white - to Drivers rear speaker

The subwoofer takes a feed off of both these rear speakers and is powered via junction box further along in the car. (small red cable behind the head unit).

The aerial you can strip down and place a new aerial connector on the end of it.
http://budgetcaraudio.co.uk/ds-ebay/...tor/PC5-27.jpg

The tricky bit was fitting the cage, as you can see it doesn't fit in the standard housing.

I had to use a soldering iron to melt the plastic back so i can get a snug fit for the cage:

Don't secure it in just yet though, you have to fit the plastic unit back into the console other wise you block the securing screw entry at the bottom.

Once the cage has been put in, the Stereo connected up: it's time to switch on, set it up and enjoy the music!

If there is anything i've missed, don't hesitate to add it below and i can amend the guide to make it as accurate as possible.
Thanks!

Dec 22nd, 2013, 10:19	#1
RichT4 Sunny Days! Last Online: Jun 6th, 2020 08:40 Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Havant	Radio Wiring guide Hello, This is purely here as a guide for when you want to remove the Standard head unit and replace it with a more updated aftermarket one. I couldn't get hold of the wiring harness adapter 'on the day' so i thought i'd study the wiring diagrams and convert the standard head unit wiring (shown below) to the ISO connectors. When taking a look at the wiring diagram, you'll notice the letters denoting colours, these are listed below: BL - BLUE BN - BROWN GN - GREEN GR - GRAY OR - ORANGE P - PINK R - RED SB - BLACK VO - VIOLET W - WHITE Y - YELLOW In the wiring diagram, page 140 is where you'll need to direct your attention: On your new ISO connectors they should be labeled to show which is which, so cut, strip and either solder or crimp to join the new cables on ending up with this: Large Red = Common live Brown and White = Ignition live/remote Large Black = Earth These are the only ones i've used to ensure that the radio is useable. The other cables i have left out because they aren't essential to the Radios operation, unless you wish to dim the radio or boost the aerial signal; in which case these link to the Central Electrical Module (CEM). Moving onto the speaker arrangement; you'll notice that there are only 8 wires going into the connector. These are arranged so that the positive and negative are side by side rather than above and below each other. Once you have 'amended' these you will be left with this: Brown + and white - for the drivers side front Green/yellow + and Gray - Passenger side front Yellow/black + and Green/black - to Passenger Rear speaker Yellow + and Green/white - to Drivers rear speaker The subwoofer takes a feed off of both these rear speakers and is powered via junction box further along in the car. (small red cable behind the head unit). The aerial you can strip down and place a new aerial connector on the end of it. http://budgetcaraudio.co.uk/ds-ebay/...tor/PC5-27.jpg The tricky bit was fitting the cage, as you can see it doesn't fit in the standard housing. I had to use a soldering iron to melt the plastic back so i can get a snug fit for the cage: Don't secure it in just yet though, you have to fit the plastic unit back into the console other wise you block the securing screw entry at the bottom. Once the cage has been put in, the Stereo connected up: it's time to switch on, set it up and enjoy the music! If there is anything i've missed, don't hesitate to add it below and i can amend the guide to make it as accurate as possible. Thanks!