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MikeSF · Jan 23rd, 2024, 19:10

Mileage 40,461 miles
Running fine prior to break down. Did have the odd low battery message.
Tried the following:-
1. Spray Easy Start into the Inlet housing.
a. Car starts but once Easy Start used up it cuts out. I believe this rules out a problem with the crank sensor and camshaft sensors
2. Battery was a bit low so fully recharged.
a. Still doesn’t start.
b. Checked the Auxiliary battery and found it was 12.6V
c. Cleaned and greased main and auxiliary battery and ground connectors.
3. Check Fuel flow from the fuel tank.
a. Drained out 2lts of petrol in about 30 seconds which is about the correct flow rate. (No diesel in the tank)
b. Tested the prime fuel pressure – 8 PSI.
c. Tested fuel pressure whilst cranking – 70 PSI.
4. Checked fuel injectors to see if they were firing.
a. Couldn’t hear any of them firing.
b. With ignition on but not cranking put a voltmeter on each injector pin 1.
i. All read 2.49V (Seems a bit low)
ii. Pin 2 on all of them read 0V (Expected these to be near the same as pin 1 unless firing)
c. With ignition on and cranking put a voltmeter on each injector pin 1.
i. Readings the same as 4b. Suspect that the injectors are not firing or perhaps something is locking the ECU from sending the ground injector pulse and supplying the correct +ve voltage.
d. Disconnected the camshaft sensors, and fuel pressure sensors. These were recognised and produced errors in the ECU which were then rectified after reconnecting. Just trying to eliminate rogue sensors that might stop the ECU firing injectors. I cannot validate timing of sensors as I do not have a scope but the ECU is timing the spark plugs correctly so should not be an issue.
e. Reset the Control modules in the car by disconnecting the battery and shorting together the +Ve and -Ve connectors once removed from the battery for 5 minutes. This is supposed to clear any historic settings any of which might have been stopping the injectors from firing. This made no difference. There never have been any real errors logged in the ECU so I am running out of ideas. I’m just hoping that the ECU isn’t faulty.
f. Tested the Alarm operation to see if it is operational by locking the doors with the driver’s window down and then reaching in a opening the door. This did set-off the alarm so the alarm is operating as it should. Apparently, a faulty alarm can kick in the immobiliser.
g. I've found out that the ECU is behind the front n/s in front of the wheel. I may remove it to investigate for water ingress or corrosion. I just don't want to hand this to a dealer so they can charge me for repeating everything I've done already.
h. I’ve read that fuses and relays should be checked for the injectors, but I’ve got a list of all modules in the car, fuses and relays and cannot find either of these listed.
I’ve ordered a Volvo specific diagnostic scanner which should be with me soon. Hopefully that will prove to be worth the investment, but if anyone has any suggestions or can tell me the following from a working v40 T2 then that would be much appreciated:-
1. The voltage at the injectors pins to ground for pin 1 and 2 with the ignition on and again when cranking.
2. The resistance of the injectors themselves.

Many thanks.

Jan 23rd, 2024, 19:10	#1
MikeSF New Member Last Online: Apr 19th, 2024 08:20 Join Date: Jan 2024 Location: Broadstone	Fault: 2016 Volvo V40 T2 Crank no start. Mileage 40,461 miles Running fine prior to break down. Did have the odd low battery message. Tried the following:- 1. Spray Easy Start into the Inlet housing. a. Car starts but once Easy Start used up it cuts out. I believe this rules out a problem with the crank sensor and camshaft sensors 2. Battery was a bit low so fully recharged. a. Still doesn’t start. b. Checked the Auxiliary battery and found it was 12.6V c. Cleaned and greased main and auxiliary battery and ground connectors. 3. Check Fuel flow from the fuel tank. a. Drained out 2lts of petrol in about 30 seconds which is about the correct flow rate. (No diesel in the tank) b. Tested the prime fuel pressure – 8 PSI. c. Tested fuel pressure whilst cranking – 70 PSI. 4. Checked fuel injectors to see if they were firing. a. Couldn’t hear any of them firing. b. With ignition on but not cranking put a voltmeter on each injector pin 1. i. All read 2.49V (Seems a bit low) ii. Pin 2 on all of them read 0V (Expected these to be near the same as pin 1 unless firing) c. With ignition on and cranking put a voltmeter on each injector pin 1. i. Readings the same as 4b. Suspect that the injectors are not firing or perhaps something is locking the ECU from sending the ground injector pulse and supplying the correct +ve voltage. d. Disconnected the camshaft sensors, and fuel pressure sensors. These were recognised and produced errors in the ECU which were then rectified after reconnecting. Just trying to eliminate rogue sensors that might stop the ECU firing injectors. I cannot validate timing of sensors as I do not have a scope but the ECU is timing the spark plugs correctly so should not be an issue. e. Reset the Control modules in the car by disconnecting the battery and shorting together the +Ve and -Ve connectors once removed from the battery for 5 minutes. This is supposed to clear any historic settings any of which might have been stopping the injectors from firing. This made no difference. There never have been any real errors logged in the ECU so I am running out of ideas. I’m just hoping that the ECU isn’t faulty. f. Tested the Alarm operation to see if it is operational by locking the doors with the driver’s window down and then reaching in a opening the door. This did set-off the alarm so the alarm is operating as it should. Apparently, a faulty alarm can kick in the immobiliser. g. I've found out that the ECU is behind the front n/s in front of the wheel. I may remove it to investigate for water ingress or corrosion. I just don't want to hand this to a dealer so they can charge me for repeating everything I've done already. h. I’ve read that fuses and relays should be checked for the injectors, but I’ve got a list of all modules in the car, fuses and relays and cannot find either of these listed. I’ve ordered a Volvo specific diagnostic scanner which should be with me soon. Hopefully that will prove to be worth the investment, but if anyone has any suggestions or can tell me the following from a working v40 T2 then that would be much appreciated:- 1. The voltage at the injectors pins to ground for pin 1 and 2 with the ignition on and again when cranking. 2. The resistance of the injectors themselves. Many thanks.