[Semnoz]

Just to add to the last reply - if you've not removed your injectors before, you might run into problems if one or more is badly seized. I was warned about this by my local Volvo indy, and I can now understand why they said it's sometime best to leave a knackered swirl throttle alone as it's not worth the potential cost of injector removal.

In my case I found only one of the 5 injectors was seized, but after a day of trying to get it to rotate, I was getting to the point where I was considering reassembling everything and leaving the original swirl assembly in place (and maybe paying a professional mobile injector removal engineer at a later date). As you'll see from my post, the only way I was able to remove the seized injector was by using a specialist extractor tool, which required the injector to be dismanted (the extractor tool threads into the inside of the main injector body), rendering it unsafe to use again without professional refurbishment. As I accidentally broke my injector trying to twist it, I had no choice but to remove it, whatever the cost (£300 in my case).

My advice is to first see if you can remove the injectors before buying anything. The downside to doing this is that to check if they can rotate once the clamp bolts are loose, you should really first remove the high-pressure fuel pipe as they don't have any flex in them (they're much stronger than, say, brake pipe). Therefore you then introduce the risk of losing the seal on those connection, and if you can't get a pipe to seal, it's recommended that you renew it (not cheap). In my case I kept everything spotless and used a very accurate torque wrench and my original pipes are still perfect 3000 miles later. When I did first run the engine having refitted the pipes, I wrapped all the pipe conections in rags and stopped every few minutes to check for any leaks. I never experienced a drop of leaked fuel at any time, so I would say it's definitely worth a go, but as already said, be very careful.