[martin93]

Even though I stated the tank should come out, I agree totally with Canis. Those jubilee clips are indeed a b****** and I did end up just sawing through both filler and vent hoses because I simply couldn't be bothered and would rather just buy new ones. The fuel pipe routing is indeed unfathomable, but my bolts surprisingly undid with ease! If you want to fit new brake pipes just to keep the car going a bit longer then yes the fuel tank can stay in.

However, Volvo fail to put any form of rust proofing above the tank and under the rear seats, so mine came out in order to cut the rust out and weld two holes underneath the back seat. So if you are planning on keeping your Volvo forever and happen to need a new rear brake pipe (as mine did), then DO take the tank out, grind down the rust, weld up any holes, prime, paint and absolutely DELUGE the bl***y thing with waxoyl... then put the tank back in... if it will fit with all that waxoyl in it's place. Put it this way, if mine happens to catch fire it will burn for days with the amount of waxoyl in all the sills and box sections.

Regarding the turbo question from V40addict, the turbo needs to receive a constant flow of good clean oil. Therefore it has a pressurised oil feed in and an oil drain which goes straight back to the sump. No oil feed to turbo means siezey siezey and bad things happen. When a turbo gets old the bearing starts to get play which in turn knackers the oil seal, so the oil then gets mixed with the air and burnt. An advanced stage is blue exhaust smoke. Or on a diesel, you may notice the cars new idling speed is around 7000rpm with the key out of the ignition, plumes of smoke comes out the back, a crowd gathers, fire engines arrive, and eventually the engine runs out of oil and siezes up into a great big metal mess.