Quote:
Originally Posted by Burdekin
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Just a follow up detail in case anybody is considering this.
In straight ahead driving the current draw of the EPS unit is milliamps. Aside from simplifying packaging on modern cars, that is one of the attractions of EPS. It is not a continuous load on the engine. As such, a larger alternator is not really a requirement since the continuous load associated with the EPS is minimal.
The EPS probably has its highest current draw when you are turning the wheels when the car is not moving. Presumably, under these circumstances the engine is operating at close to idle speed and I have noticed that the output curves of a lot of high capacity alternators is quite poor at lower engine speeds. So, a higher capacity alternator may net you no improvement in performance of the EPS under the most onerous operating conditions. I still have an original Bosch 35 A alternator on my car and it has not presented a limitation - so far. I actually like the Bosch because at idle it has a higher current capacity than some more modern large alternators.
Because the high current load is more likely to occur at idle / low engine speeds, the EPS is more reliant on the condition of the battery. It is a bit like the starter motor in having short periods of high current draw. I connect my EPS unit directly to the stud on the starter motor through a 60 amp fuse using #6 or #8 wire. On a LHD car the starter is closer / more convenient than the battery + terminal and the starter and EPS are not operating at the same time so they have no mutual affect. The battery I use in my car is a relatively small 51R AGM (common size in older Honda Civics in North America) and so far it has worked just fine. If the battery has the oomph to crank the starter motor smartly then with good electrical connections the EPS should be happy.
Short answer. If your electrical bits are in good condition you probably do not need to engage in any heroic measures to install an EPS.