...spot weld removal in this thread / on this forum before but it is one of those things that I think often gets done "wrong".
Most folks seem to be fixated with special (expensive if you buy the good ones) spot weld drill bits.
{Note these are good if you for some reason you are trying to preserve the two joined parts but nine times out of ten you'll be wanting to remove something that is rusted and knackered and hoping to try and preserve a piece of metal underneath}
So bearing the note above in mind I use a different method. I like to grind away the spot weld on the part you are going to chuck making it super thin so you can snip and pry the part away.
If you get to an end where there is only one spot weld on a length / piece of metal left then twisting the metal axially around the spot weld is a good way of removing the last bit.
You end up with little dots of old spot weld which are easy to grind back.
I think - with care - the chances of making a mess of the metal you are trying to preserve underneath are smaller using this method than with those drills
The passenger door has the least amount of damage and was coated immediately in cold galvanising spray (Zinga)
The driver's door has the most damage =>
It is now being treated with Rustyco - the fluid version - trying to encourage capillary action - letting it soak under the other door seal holding bits
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I got the new door seal strips from VP a few days ago. I'm happy to report the edges are nicely rounded for the correct fitment of the door seals - I could have probably made my own but I really need to get a spurt on with the paint (as explained before)
(Good eh? Expensive but good!)