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Old Aug 16th, 2018, 14:05   #14
Clan
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Last Online: Yesterday 23:35
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: L/H side
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Originally Posted by Bugjam1999 View Post
Ok, went and tinkered with the spare carb in the garage. The diaphragm is complete with no splits, as is the float bowl gasket. The little silver valve thing on the side appears to work, in that I took it off and if I blow into it there’s no airflow but if I suck on the valve it opens and lets air through. I can see how the operation of that valve would be massively affected by the condition of the hose that connects onto it- the hose on this carb is perished at both ends. I tested the float and it holds air and doesn’t leak.

I have a tool that fits the mixture adjustment on the bottom, but I don’t have a tool that will fit the... not sure what it’s called, the float bowl inlet jet in the float bowl that keeps the float bowl full but not overfull. It’d have to be an extremely thin walled socket to remove it as it’s close to the edge of the floatbowl.

The main needle is clearly bent, so I’m curious how the car this came from ran...

I think I have enough spares to at least remove the current carb and look at it.

Cheers,

So- dashpot, how much oil?

And is there a guide online anywhere to tuning these carbs?
the needle won't be bent , it is spring loaded to one side ,, use ATF oil for the dashpot or a very thin 3 in-one type oil , if you warm up the engine and screw the adjuster up a little you should feel the RMP go up and and the idle smooth out , but only turn 1 flat at a time . it is very sensitive . You might find the nut is "tight" which means someone has already screwed it up as weak as it will go ..
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