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Old Nov 4th, 2013, 00:01   #10
tosoutherncars
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Last Online: Jun 28th, 2017 05:13
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Ottawa
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OK, here we go; Day 2 of the Continuing Saga of the Non-Functioning Parking Brake!

I will start by saying this, in reference to my earlier question: THE EXPLODED DIAGRAM REFERENCED ABOVE IS *NOT* ACCURATE FOR LATER CARS. On my car, there is no separate bracket (part labeled #25); the aluminium sub-frame serves as the inboard terminal point for the outer casing. No clip (part #24) is used on the inboard end, either. The anodized metal cable end is a friction fit.

FINAL DISASSEMBLY


Before going any further, I laid out the new parts, to get an idea of layout. Cable ending '32 is left side; '33 is right side. In the picture below, we are standing behind the car, so to speak.



It hurts my brain a bit, but I get it... the main cable pulls on the left-side brake assembly. That has the effect of wanting to pull the centre point (and therefore the anodized bracket) to the left; and *that*, in turn, puts an equal and opposite pull on the right-side assembly.

So, I disconnected the middle exhaust / resonator at the cat. (Had to drill out one of the two bolts, which was rusted solid.) I didn't (couldn't) remove that portion of the exhaust, as it's trapped by the rear axle; but unbolting it at both ends lets you move it around as needed. And trust me, it's needed.

Next, I slacked all the bolts I could find that hold up the gas tank. Chief here was the bolt (attached to the exhaust hanger bracket) on the right outboard side of the tank. As well, the bolts holding on the retaining straps and retaining strap bracket. Sorry, no photos.

Loosening all the bolts dropped the tank maybe 2"; just enough to get at the cable, which (again) runs down the right outboard side of the tank.

Next, you have to disconnect the P-shaped clamp (part #20 on diagram) which is at the highest part, directly over the right axle. It is almost invisible; here is the best shot I could get of it, from the rear (with muffler removed).



With the mid-pipe pushed aside, remove with a LONG extension with a 8mm (I think) bit from directly underneath. Easier than trying to get your hand up there.

It was then time to remove the cable. I duct-taped some cord to the end, before pulling / pushing it through. (This is the 'after' picture.)



REASSEMBLY BEGINS

CONTROVERSIAL BIT: I really didn't want to bother trying to push the rubber grommet in from underneath. Now, my original grommet was in good condition, so I had a spare, and decided to experiment.

Step one: slice grommet down the middle.

Step two: fish the cable back in from underneath, using rope. (Easy breezy.)

Step three: from the comfort of your back seat, install sliced-up grommet from above. Make sure 'slice' is on the side opposite where the cable tends to press. Again, easy as pie.





I am *sure* that my little workaround will not spin in place , which would then allow the cable to be damaged by the metal chassis. But as always, YMMV.

Reinstalled the new P-clip above the axle, with new nut (all parts recommended by the technical notes).

REASSEMBLY - REAR CABLE, RIGHT SIDE

1) Clean out holes in knuckle and aluminium subframe.

2) Install hose at both ends. It is a push fit; no disassembly required, the ends (and rubber gaiter) fit through the holes. I didn't use anti-seize here - in retrospect, I think I should have.

3) Install new retaining clip (part #24) behind dust shield.


REASSEMBLY - PARKING BRAKE DRUMS

1) Spray down dust plate / assembly with brake cleaner. Spray rotors, paying particular attention to inner drum surfaces.

2) Install spreader assembly (part #34/35) onto new cable end. (Use left side as guide, but remember it's a mirror image).

3) Reassemble new drums. Ends with tapered metal go toward the spreader assembly. Fixed spacer goes at the other end.

4) Install thick curved metal spring (two or three flathead screwdrivers needed here, to pry.)

5) Install retaining clip to hold down main spring.



6) Re-check; then reinstall rotor, making sure to use anti-seize on surfaces that contact the hub.

Well, that's where I got to today; I'm hoping to finish tomorrow. Still to do; pbrake on the left side, brake pads (both sides), complete reassembly, and adjust everything.

My only concern is that I don't have a dial gauge, to measure run-out on the rotors when reinstalling. However, I'm putting the old ones back on; guess I'll chance it. If I end up with pulsating brakes, I'll have to pull it back apart and (either) rotate them or (more likely) install new rotors. But that's a 30 minute job, if everything else is done. So for now, I just want to get it all back together, and past the MOT.
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