Hi,
Drove to work a couple of weeks ago and seeing a colleague leaving needed to make sure he had all the bit I had prep'd for him s wound the window down. Parked up and attempted to close the window.
The clue is in the "attempted"..
Down triggered a slight response from the window gear but not up.
After faffing about for a while it was obvious the window was staying. Popped to DPF who promptly disconnected the switch and wound up the window. Switch was confirmed as the culprit.
Called Braydons who has a switch panel in and they sent it complete. Different colour to mine so decided the swap switches. After al, how hard could it be!!!
So to get at the panel and remove it it is best to pull the door card.
First you need to pull the bottom door clips:
That one near the front is inset and needs a small screw driver to get it out:
Next comes the door pull removal:
Lever out gently the cover plate with a small screw driver:
You get to see the two torx head screws holding the pull and door car in position. Sometime, if a dealer has already been here they'll use a bit of mastic to stick the plate in position!:
Remove the rear red warning lamp. Either as here by pulling the lap out of the door card, or you can also just disconnect the cable and leave the lamp in situ:
Carefully remove the door release trim:
You should now be able to pull the lower part of the card away and then lift the whole off the door:
Now we can see the switch panel with it green surround in place. All the plugs are different. None will plug into any other socket/switch point:
After careful removal of each of the plugs for all of the switches we can remove the panel from the door card. Remove carefully the whole switch panel out. Be careful as it is in two halves clipped together (and best to stay that way!):
This gives ease of access to remove the green surround using the clip points (one on each side) to remove it:
This brings us neatly to the offending switch. The switch are held in place by plastic clips that "grab" the switch.:
The clips are brittle, being 16 odd years old. Releasing on clip pushes the switch against the other making release difficult. You will also see that the gap at each end is different. It makes little difference which end you start from as to your success. This really unnerved me as I could see that one of the clips would undoubtedly break. So I decided to pop the switch in a warm place for a while to help "soften" any brittleness. An hour was obviously not enough as, on removal the clip on one side gave way slightly.
My remidy was simple. Shore up that side of the switch and clip. I used the plastic case from a recent micro SSD card delivery and used two pieces together and slid then down the space between switch and switch socket on the panel:
Once back in, refitting is pretty much the reverse of the above. Things to watch out for are remembering to connect all your cables. When fitting the door card back raise the top inner edge above the metal of the door inner panel and at an angle - rear up to allow the card to be slid back into position. Make sure the position is correct so you can get 1) the bottom clips back and 2) the two screws back.
The front of the three clips is a devil to return. I found a little mastic on a slim ratchet driver holding the clip was best and hold the door card onto the door to allow correct fitting.
Voilà, one working drivers door window again.
Des. . .
