Volvo Owners Club Forum - View Single Post - D5 "Dump Valve Sound" / Slow Turbo Response Cure

RAN60 · Apr 14th, 2011, 10:25

As discussed in my previous posts On the S60 00-07 Forum and after lengthy investigations into why my car was producing this overboost and Dump valve "PSSSSSSST" sound everytime i revved or changed gear, the problem has turned out to be so simple yet so very easy to cure.

I cannot take full credit for this thought as i had alot of help fault finding, result comparisons and advice from Outnumbered, Hobbyhorse and Bernard 333. So big, big thanks to you guys!

Right here is a quick how to: (I cant take credit for the photos as they are the work of the very helpful Outnumbered, Thanks again)

Tools Needed: 1 Big flat head screwdriver, 1 Torx 30 Screwdriver, 1 Can of Brake/clutch cleaner (or similar), 1 Small screwdriver & 1 cup of tea to admire your handy work on completion

1) Remove the Inlet pipe by unscrewing the jubilee clips pointed out in the picture below

2) Once this pipe has been removed you will not have much better access to the Boost control valve or turbo governor (many different names) shown just behind the pipe below.

3) Unbolt the 2 screws shown in the image which hold the Control valve to the engine block (Torx 30 screws).

*IMPORTANT* As shown below, make sure you put a rag or cloth down onto the starter motor terminals because when you are unbolting the bottom screw your screwdriver can quite easily short out on the positive terminal.

4) Pull out the controll valve so that you can get easy access to pipes and connector attached to the unit. Remove the pipes and connector shown below making sure you note which pipe went on which input (they are labeled "VAC" and "OUT"

5) This bit is the only fiddly bit. *CAREFULLY* remove the small black square cover on top of the boost control valve (shown below) with a small screwdriver or knife (there are 4 small lugs holding it on) *be careful also not to snap the supporting legs, although they are quite tough*

6) Once the cap has been removed you will see a small, very fine plastic mesh. This is where the vacuum is diverted to release the boost pressure on the turbo. As you can see even the slightest bit of muck can reduce airflow out from this. Using the Brake Cleaner (or carb clearner) Give the mesh a good long blast from the top and quite close to make sure all the little bits of crap are removed. The mesh, when clean should become a white color.

7) On the "Out" Leg give a gentle blow until air is felt from through the "Out" leg, just to dry it out and make sure there's no crap in there.

Fitting is the same but in reverse

I hope this helps people that were in my boat, as we have discussed in previous threads, i wouldnt like to think how many peple have replaced this valve for the same reasons i would have, only to find they could have cleaned this mesh and problem solved!

I cant gaurantee this will work for everyone as there maybe other vacuum related issues going on such as leaky engine pads.

But i would recommend this to anyone doing routine maintenance on thier car as my turbo response was DRAMATICALLY increased and the "dump valve" sound is GONE!!!

Once again i cant thank Mike (outnumbered) enough for his sound advice, willingness to go out and help (leaving his breakfast go cold) and for the pictures! Also to all the other guys for thier help and advice!

If this saves one more person from a trip to the garage with countless diagnostics being performed and parts changed being changed at rediculous costs then it goes to show just how useful and helpful this forum and alls its members are!

Apr 14th, 2011, 10:25	#1
RAN60 Master Member Last Online: Mar 30th, 2024 07:50 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Wales	D5 "Dump Valve Sound" / Slow Turbo Response Cure As discussed in my previous posts On the S60 00-07 Forum and after lengthy investigations into why my car was producing this overboost and Dump valve "PSSSSSSST" sound everytime i revved or changed gear, the problem has turned out to be so simple yet so very easy to cure. I cannot take full credit for this thought as i had alot of help fault finding, result comparisons and advice from Outnumbered, Hobbyhorse and Bernard 333. So big, big thanks to you guys! Right here is a quick how to: (I cant take credit for the photos as they are the work of the very helpful Outnumbered, Thanks again) Tools Needed: 1 Big flat head screwdriver, 1 Torx 30 Screwdriver, 1 Can of Brake/clutch cleaner (or similar), 1 Small screwdriver & 1 cup of tea to admire your handy work on completion 1) Remove the Inlet pipe by unscrewing the jubilee clips pointed out in the picture below 2) Once this pipe has been removed you will not have much better access to the Boost control valve or turbo governor (many different names) shown just behind the pipe below. 3) Unbolt the 2 screws shown in the image which hold the Control valve to the engine block (Torx 30 screws). IMPORTANT As shown below, make sure you put a rag or cloth down onto the starter motor terminals because when you are unbolting the bottom screw your screwdriver can quite easily short out on the positive terminal. 4) Pull out the controll valve so that you can get easy access to pipes and connector attached to the unit. Remove the pipes and connector shown below making sure you note which pipe went on which input (they are labeled "VAC" and "OUT" 5) This bit is the only fiddly bit. CAREFULLY remove the small black square cover on top of the boost control valve (shown below) with a small screwdriver or knife (there are 4 small lugs holding it on) be careful also not to snap the supporting legs, although they are quite tough 6) Once the cap has been removed you will see a small, very fine plastic mesh. This is where the vacuum is diverted to release the boost pressure on the turbo. As you can see even the slightest bit of muck can reduce airflow out from this. Using the Brake Cleaner (or carb clearner) Give the mesh a good long blast from the top and quite close to make sure all the little bits of crap are removed. The mesh, when clean should become a white color. 7) On the "Out" Leg give a gentle blow until air is felt from through the "Out" leg, just to dry it out and make sure there's no crap in there. Fitting is the same but in reverse I hope this helps people that were in my boat, as we have discussed in previous threads, i wouldnt like to think how many peple have replaced this valve for the same reasons i would have, only to find they could have cleaned this mesh and problem solved! I cant gaurantee this will work for everyone as there maybe other vacuum related issues going on such as leaky engine pads. But i would recommend this to anyone doing routine maintenance on thier car as my turbo response was DRAMATICALLY increased and the "dump valve" sound is GONE!!! Once again i cant thank Mike (outnumbered) enough for his sound advice, willingness to go out and help (leaving his breakfast go cold) and for the pictures! Also to all the other guys for thier help and advice! If this saves one more person from a trip to the garage with countless diagnostics being performed and parts changed being changed at rediculous costs then it goes to show just how useful and helpful this forum and alls its members are!