Sounds as if things are getting back in line again. Re your coolant behaviour, it's not unusual to have to bleed a few times and it sounds as if you still have some air in the system. Bleed with the heater control lever on full hot. When all seems well have the level in the bottle between the level lines. The caps must be good and make good seals. Rad one is a full blocking type which doesn't blow off. Use for basic filling only, then hang the bottle from the hood hook and top it up from there. That will be the highest point for the coolant and you can run the engine up to temp like that if you like, to bubble out any air. Refit to the side of rad and adjust coolant level. Fit a good cap with 7 or 10psi rating. Level when hot should be about or a little above the high mark and about the low mark after cooling down. Not too critical but there must be a reasonable amount of volume above the coolant to take expansion into account. The increased pressure will lower the boiling point. When the engine and coolant are hot it will boil over if you take the cap off due to the reduced pressure. If you've ever done this you'll know how dangerous this is. A bad cap or one with the wrong reach won't hold the pressure and you also get a boil-over. A leaky cap or a distorted plastic bottle can cause an annoying boil over if you come to a halt in traffic after a fast run and the engine is really hot.
Hopefully, your caps are good, just making a point.
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