[blueosprey90]

I am probably in a situation similar to yours and this reply is based on my limited experience using the Eastwood products (United States)


I've used the Eastwood Fast Etch. This is a phosphoric acid liquid sold as a a rust remover, but it is probably best for flash rust. It is applied for about 20 minutes. It dissolves rust and leaves the metal a silver color that can be left unpainted for days without flashing rust. I clean up the metal as well as possible with wire brushes and the like. Then I spray it on and then scrub in with a 3M (plastic ?) scouring pad. I do use a grease remover before applying so that it will not bead up when I spray it on. The scrubbing is to loosen the rust and to get the Fast Etch down into the rust potholes. I wipe down and degrease before proceeding.

The Fast Etch does not seem to damage surrounding paint, but I think it did damage the night glare coating on my glasses.

I've used the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator up under the dash and on the kick panels. I bought the aerosol. I believe best results are when you very thoroughly shake the can. First removed as much rust as possible with wire brushes, then I did an application of the Eastwood Fast Etch, wiped down and degreased. The Rust Encapsulator is fairly thin and went on much like a primer coat of paint. I did several coats and was satisfied with the result, although I did feel that the Rust Encapsulator scratched down to bare metal rather easily. It is said to take any top coat, but I just covered with soundproofing material and other finishing materials.

You might ask how I managed to wire brush up under the dash. I attached my array of wire brushes to a long drill bit extension and extended the drill's reach by about 15 inches.

I believe that P0R-15 would be considered a rust encapsulator. I did use this material on the floor boards. Same basic process - clean up metal with wire brushes, degrease, apply POR-15 Metal Prep (I believe the same phosphorus acid as the Eastwood Fast Etch), rub it in with the 3M scour pads, wipe off, degrease and then apply the POR-15. The POR-15 dries to a much harder, glass like finish. Should be lightly scuffed or sanded and primed with POR primer before application of a finish coat.


I've also used Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating. I've sprayed this stuff into the rocker panels, into the frame rails under the floorboards, into the frames that hold the seats and into the voids between the front fenders and the interior kick panel metal. All areas that I could not access with a wire brush. This is a very loose liquid that is supposed to penetrate, encapsulate and leave a Zinc Phosphate coating. When using, it was important to tape over any holes so that the material wouldn't a) run out and b) get sprayed into the interior or areas where a coating was not wanted. It is sprayed through a 2 foot tube with 4 orifices at the outlet, so it shoots out in four directions.



Eastwood also has a Rust Converter. I believe this is intended for seriously rusted parts from which the rust cannot readily be removed. I haven't used the Rust Converter.