From a response I gave in a similar thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheshired5
To save many hours of time, leave every fuse in place and probe the two exposed fuse contacts with a multimeter set to the lowest DC volts setting.
You're basically doing a voltage drop test across the fuse and a 0.000 reading means there's no current flowing through that fuse so it can be eliminated.
If you get a reading, there is current through that fuse but still leave it in place for now and make a note of the fuse.
Test every available fuse this way and you'll be left with a much easier to manage 4 or 5 active fuses/circuits by the end and you can see the impact of their removal on the current drain.
Don't discount the alternator diodes either. If you have a failure there, you'll have a drain which won't be spotted by any amount of fuse checking or pulling.
|
The quickest way to get an idea of alternator performance is to measure the DC output
directly from the alternator b+ post not the battery on a running engine.