Volvo Owners Club Forum - View Single Post - S40

Snoodini · Apr 6th, 2016, 08:45

It's almost never the handle. for some reason it's often suggested as the cause but it almost never is. First port of call is the wiring. It's a common fault that the wiring fails inside the flexible rubber conduit that joins between the boot lid and the body.

Regarding your present situation. you should be able to just disconnect the connector that's connected to the lock mechanism and open the lid, leaving the lock mechanism locked to the body of the car. once you have access to the mechanism you can manually open it (that is, without electricity). It's been a couple of years since I replaced my lock but there's a small lever towards the electrical connector end of the lock. you can manipulate that with a screwdriver and it will unlatch. As I said, I don't remember exactly but just poke around with a screwdriver (DON'T force anything though).

You can trigger it electrically by applying 12v to pins 1 & 2 on the lock connector (the left two pins as you look at it in the second image you provide, don't apply the voltage whilst the connector is plugged in to the rest of the car in case you make a bad connection. you can't trigger it from the grey connector on its own due to the way it's wired, only one conductor goes directly to the release motor, the other comes from the switch unit.

Once you've git it open check the wiring between pin 1 on the lock connector and pin 4 on the grey connector... they should be connected. if they aren't. that's your problem.

Apr 6th, 2016, 08:45	#2
Snoodini Member Last Online: Jul 20th, 2021 08:47 Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Gothenburg	It's almost never the handle. for some reason it's often suggested as the cause but it almost never is. First port of call is the wiring. It's a common fault that the wiring fails inside the flexible rubber conduit that joins between the boot lid and the body. Regarding your present situation. you should be able to just disconnect the connector that's connected to the lock mechanism and open the lid, leaving the lock mechanism locked to the body of the car. once you have access to the mechanism you can manually open it (that is, without electricity). It's been a couple of years since I replaced my lock but there's a small lever towards the electrical connector end of the lock. you can manipulate that with a screwdriver and it will unlatch. As I said, I don't remember exactly but just poke around with a screwdriver (DON'T force anything though). You can trigger it electrically by applying 12v to pins 1 & 2 on the lock connector (the left two pins as you look at it in the second image you provide, don't apply the voltage whilst the connector is plugged in to the rest of the car in case you make a bad connection. you can't trigger it from the grey connector on its own due to the way it's wired, only one conductor goes directly to the release motor, the other comes from the switch unit. Once you've git it open check the wiring between pin 1 on the lock connector and pin 4 on the grey connector... they should be connected. if they aren't. that's your problem. Last edited by Snoodini; Apr 6th, 2016 at 08:58.