[ASt85]

Originally Posted by MRkSTL

Thanks for your reply.

There are speakers in the boot, but I guess they are factory fitted. It is a constant live ,just like the amplifier fuse (where I hardwired dash cam). I've noticed that as once I looked through the window at nighttime and there was a light at the back of my car. Firstly I thought it is the reg plate light, but I realized that it has not happened before ,so it is most likely the night-vision of the reverse camera that was triggered.

I took the multi-meter to find a switched fuse and I picked F20 (towing bar wiring ,according to my manual). Is it normal that I got this fuse even though the car was not fitted with towing bar by the manufacturer?

I may open another thread regarding the dash cam hardwire kit, but perhaps you could help me out with it?
I bough a dash cam and the hardwire kit from Amazon. The kit came obviously with that low voltage protection device and I used an amplifier fuse (F11, live) in the compartment closest to the driver. It should pretend the battery voltage to drop below 11.6V (according to the manufacturer of the device - Iiway), but if I don't use the car for couple of days, it may not start. It happened to me twice already. At the moment ,I simply unplug the dash cam, but it is not a solution. I could use a switched fuse, but that's the not point either. The kit comes with adapters and spare fuses (one per size). F11 fuse is 30amps ,so I had to use their fuse to match the size ,but it's only 3amps ,and for some reason it didn't work. So I used my spare 30amps fuse along with the original one and both, amplifier and dashcam work ok, but it still drains the battery.

The question is, is it because I used a 30amps fuse instead of 3amps that came with the kit? or that protection device is faulty and perhaps their fuse is faulty too?

I've no idea if the F20 is always fitted, I would think not as saving 15p on a fuse at manufacture multiplied by a run of say 300,000 cars saves the manufacturer £45,000.

Re the hardwired to a permanent live, if your camera is set to record when the car is bumped you may find it is on almost all of the time - even the slight vibration from a phone in the car is enough to trigger the camera, in which case even if you a parked on a drive the vibration from passing traffic is enough to start the camera recording - even though it is low current it is till enough to drain the battery in a few days.

Unless you specifically want it permanently live I would connect it to an ignition guarded fuse, mine are hard wired using "piggyback" fuses which came with the camera kits - the rears are wireless so only record when the reversing light or brake lights are triggered - OK overkill but would show why you got rammed on heavy braking