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Bob Meadows · Sep 9th, 2019, 12:25

Electric Window Motor (Front Passenger Side)
Volvo 240 1988 GL.
Problem:~ motor had stopped in the up position but I had a live feed to the same when switches operated- use a test probe- test bulb is fine here across the two wires.
Suspected a seized regulator/motor.[/I]
Markings on the motor- Bosch 058. FPE 12v 0130821036. Brose 68-24362-0

The process of elimination to find the fault had been- check all fuses 10 & 12. Check wiring to include flexing problems within the doors- solenoid also eliminated.
You can check all the switches by substituting or swopping from one side to the other.

Remove the door card as manual guidance. The wires to the motor are red & black, reversing the polarity will make the motor run in different directions i.e. up/down.
Rather than remove the loom I decided to cut the wires near to the black cable cover attached to the top of the motor and replace with a bullet type connector including soldered terminals.
Remove the regulator & motor as a unit, clamp the regulator with “G” clamps and remove the motor.
Access to the internals of the motor are made by removing the black cable cover (snaps on) and two small bolts holding the rotor cover- you will need to tap out & lever the nylon cable terminal fitting complete with the brush mechanism – brushes are copper (similar to a starter motor) and should be in good condition only requiring a general clean, lubricate the rear bearing when reassembling and the front of the motor shaft as it enters the main body holding the operating cogs- reseat the rubber gasket. Check the gasket that is under the rotor cover- grease up when fitting back.
To remove the motor as a full unit you will need to take the metal cover of the main box- a press fit etc., tapping a knife blade around the same should result in the cover coming away. You can either expand the fitting lugs or drill out for small self-tapping screws when replacing.
I used the screws as it secures the top better.
Inside the box you will find the motor shaft extension & driving cog plus an end bearing with a push in plastic cover. This on my car needed a thorough clean & grease to allow normal operation.
You can also test the motor at this stage and it should run quite fast in both directions.
Inside the main body you will find a large nylon cog that is driven by the motor- check that this is free running and replace the grease as necessary. This part had also become very reluctant to move and regardless of oiling it needed to be removed so the cog shaft could be properly cleaned. To remove this tap the spigot from the top of the nylon internal wheel outwards- you will see two small metal grips that make it an interference fit. Clean the shaft that goes through the body and grease all parts, when it goes back together do not knock the nylon wheel too far in as it may make it run tight-if so just release a little- a spring washes is under the wheel acting as a spacer aiding free movement etc.
Fasten the motor back onto the regulator and release the clamps- grease all working parts and reinstate the unit back into the door frame for testing.
After completing the above the window works fine and has improved as the grease gets spread through the working parts.
Trust it helps.
Bob.

Sep 9th, 2019, 12:25	#4
Bob Meadows Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 19:53 Join Date: Sep 2017 Location: STANDISH LANCASHIRE	Electric Front Window Repair:~ Electric Window Motor (Front Passenger Side) Volvo 240 1988 GL. Problem:~ motor had stopped in the up position but I had a live feed to the same when switches operated- use a test probe- test bulb is fine here across the two wires. Suspected a seized regulator/motor.[/I] Markings on the motor- Bosch 058. FPE 12v 0130821036. Brose 68-24362-0 The process of elimination to find the fault had been- check all fuses 10 & 12. Check wiring to include flexing problems within the doors- solenoid also eliminated. You can check all the switches by substituting or swopping from one side to the other. Remove the door card as manual guidance. The wires to the motor are red & black, reversing the polarity will make the motor run in different directions i.e. up/down. Rather than remove the loom I decided to cut the wires near to the black cable cover attached to the top of the motor and replace with a bullet type connector including soldered terminals. Remove the regulator & motor as a unit, clamp the regulator with “G” clamps and remove the motor. Access to the internals of the motor are made by removing the black cable cover (snaps on) and two small bolts holding the rotor cover- you will need to tap out & lever the nylon cable terminal fitting complete with the brush mechanism – brushes are copper (similar to a starter motor) and should be in good condition only requiring a general clean, lubricate the rear bearing when reassembling and the front of the motor shaft as it enters the main body holding the operating cogs- reseat the rubber gasket. Check the gasket that is under the rotor cover- grease up when fitting back. To remove the motor as a full unit you will need to take the metal cover of the main box- a press fit etc., tapping a knife blade around the same should result in the cover coming away. You can either expand the fitting lugs or drill out for small self-tapping screws when replacing. I used the screws as it secures the top better. Inside the box you will find the motor shaft extension & driving cog plus an end bearing with a push in plastic cover. This on my car needed a thorough clean & grease to allow normal operation. You can also test the motor at this stage and it should run quite fast in both directions. Inside the main body you will find a large nylon cog that is driven by the motor- check that this is free running and replace the grease as necessary. This part had also become very reluctant to move and regardless of oiling it needed to be removed so the cog shaft could be properly cleaned. To remove this tap the spigot from the top of the nylon internal wheel outwards- you will see two small metal grips that make it an interference fit. Clean the shaft that goes through the body and grease all parts, when it goes back together do not knock the nylon wheel too far in as it may make it run tight-if so just release a little- a spring washes is under the wheel acting as a spacer aiding free movement etc. Fasten the motor back onto the regulator and release the clamps- grease all working parts and reinstate the unit back into the door frame for testing. After completing the above the window works fine and has improved as the grease gets spread through the working parts. Trust it helps. Bob.