I think that if your compression is equal on all cylinders you should be pretty happy. But for best results, I think you want to do the test with engine hot and carbs wide open.
You can also do a leak down test, and that will help identify location of any problem. But you need an easy way to get each piston up to top dead center and a special piece of test equipment (a dual gauge tester) that you can probably rent from an auto supply store. Google "leak down test" and many videos will come up.
Exhaust valves can be expected to "decay" faster because that is where you get valve recession. The exhaust side is much hotter than the intake side, because the intake side is cooled by the incoming fuel. The hardened valve seats are often just done on the exhaust side for this reason. Lead free gasoline runs hotter, exacerbates the problem and that is why one installs the hardened valve seats.
Since you already have the head off, you might as well do a valve job. It's not that big of a deal for a machine shop; and you can do it at home if you can get a valve spring compressor to remove the valves. Once again, something you can likely rent at an auto supply store. Some lapping compound and an reversible, variable speed electric drill is what I've used to make short work of the valve job. Some would not like that method, preferring hand lapping. Google "lapping valves" and you will see how it is done.
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