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Old Jan 31st, 2019, 12:34   #7
Yobbo
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Last Online: Sep 7th, 2023 11:33
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: East Yorkshire
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob740 View Post
Hi,

When I phoned the local volvo dealer with a chassis number they still weren't sure as to which ball joints I should get. I think I may just by a set of each and return the incorrect ones as it means I won't get stuck with the car in bits.

As far as mpg goes I reckon average is about 43-45mpg never really tried to monitor the other figures but that's what the dash read out says for average. I do a fair mix of driving, my commute is around 20 miles each way on country roads and I do quite a few motorway runs between Aberdeen and Edinburgh.

As I understand it the D5 is a dry DPF (I may be wrong) which I've heard may be slightly better in terms of reliability than the wet ones. Also mine is rarely used for short journeys which I think helps.

At the moment the car is completely standard but when the exhaust goes i will probably look at an upgrade which may then mean a remap as well. At some point in the near future I may get The engine BG cleaned to try and prolong the life of the EGR system. After that I think if the suspension starts to feel tired I'll maybe uprate that too but so far it has been an excellent bus for me!
My car is MY2009 and uses the 21mm wishbone ball joint, there is a change over according to VIN but I'm almost certain that your car won't be using the earlier 18mm variant.

Dry DPF indeed, non serviceable item so is intended to last the life of the car.
I would say that's worth running it on premium diesel if you already aren't, keeps the fuel injection, intake, and emissions equipment in much better condition. With cheaper standard diesel your car will clog with carbon much quicker and will incite more frequent DPF regenerations.
The last year I ran the car for about 9 months on standard BP diesel and Millers EcoMax, I actually saw worse economy and the car did far more regens than when it ran on BP Ultimate Derv, also the fuel filter was dirtier than usual.
You can guess what I'm running on again nowadays!
I don't think you'll need to use BG clean at all, but what I would do is clean out the throttle body - accessible by removing the airbox and a few other bits, you could do it on the car but it's a messy job, I removed the entire EGR assembly and it took some time to clean out the gunk.
Also check the turbo inlet pipe near the turbo end - this seems to be a common place where it cracks and causes boost leak, this makes the car run richer too.
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Last edited by Yobbo; Jan 31st, 2019 at 12:36.
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