Thanks for the comments, chaps, much appreciated!
Turns out that removing the serpentine belt tensioner (not mentioned in any diy instructions I've seen) is necessary to see the marks on the crankshaft cog. I'll have to clean the block side to see the mark there clearly (I secured a wire brush onto a 500mm, 1/4" steel rod so I can use a drill to do this), but that is some progress.
What I can see is that the cog marks are clearly out by 2 or 3 teeth. Don't know why, I set the camshaft timing marks exactly before doing any dismantling [volvo again
], and the engine hasn't been turned, but there you go...
I did use Tippex (correcting fluid) to mark the timing belt to the cam cogs, and the crankshaft pulley to the bodywork, so when I next get down to look through the wheel arch liner [Luxobarge
], I'll be able to see if anything's changed.
Turning the crankshaft to the right position may help... ...
I had seen that video, part 2 of the one I originally mentioned [cheers, 4x4].
One difference is that the tensioner in that video is the compress-and-pin type, whereas my wagon has the one where you slacken a bolt and set it to the ambient temperature before retightening. Don't know if that makes any practical difference. I'd tried looping the belt round the inlet and exhaust cam cogs first, but then got stuck on getting it round the pump. I'll have another go at leaving the tensioner till last [thanks, ITSv40], now I've got a clearer space to work in.
Anyway, thanks for the contributions, it's alway heartening to know there are people out there who know what you're going through.
P.S. "All quite easy" indeed...
