Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerthechorister
Squeal only at low speed/light braking effort. Bang 'em on and they are silent. Hard to gauge location from the driver's seat but I think left hand side, not sure if front or back. Handbrake makes no difference but is silent.
I would have imagined garage to check pad wear when blowing out dust which it says it has done. Visual inspection without removing pads.
I may only do few miles but there are two nearby motorway or nearly motorway stretches with no cameras, and my favourite uphill test run, so cobwebs are unlikely!
I'll have a rummage in my pile of papers but last MoT was about a year ago so may take some finding. If I find it it will have the idle settings, but my recollection is that they were spot on. I always demand the emission test figs.
I have however no idea how the garage is doing MoT tests as it says its exhaust gas anayser is broken! But mixture has got to be prime suspect in that on said favourite test hill (up) where on a cold wet night I could once see speedo 125 I now only see speedo 110 - but in the early days I had Hydras with standard tyres on and now I have Galaxies with wider tyres, so more rolling resistance.
And yes, I am naughty with petrol but I have to drive nearly 20 miles to get V-Power except at one garage that has petrol at the prices of French perfumes!
Oh - in the old days I used to set mixtures using a Gunson Colourtune and I think I still have it. Could I use that in stead of an exhaust gas analyser or is it insufficiently precise?
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In that case, a piece of grit lodged in one of the pads is prime suspect for your squeal, wouldn't have been blown out due to being stuck in the pad. While you're in there, clean and regrease the slider pins, clean the calipers with a wire brush, especially where the pads make any contact, use a file to deburr the metal edges of the pads and then (before refitting the pads), wedge the file in the caliper against the edge of the brake disc and use a long lever between the wheel studs to turn the disc so it scrapes the edge of the disc against the file to remove and lip/rust build up on the edge - do this to both sides of the disc.
When refitting the pads, smear some copper grease on the backs of the pads where they make contact with the caliper pistons/caliper body and on the edges of the metal backing where they slide in the caliper.
As for the petrol, using cheap fuel is a false economy. I wouldn't bother with V-Power these days either as i'm certain (and so are several others on a different forum) that the formula has changed.
Switch to BP Ultimate Unleaded. Yes it costs a bit more than the cheap supermarket stuff but you get what you pay for.
If you're losing 1/3 of your normal economy using cheap fuel and you regain it using slightly more expensive fuel, it's a no-brainer, use the dearer stuff!
Also run some injector cleaner through the tank on the heavy duty cleaning dose (usually twice the normal dose) to help clear the gunge that builds up on injectors.
Using cheap fuel (especially less than 97/98 octane) will cause detonation aka pinking/preignition and a whole raft of other names. No matter what you call it, it triggers an output from the knock sensor (the banjo shaped animal on the left side of the block) that retards the ignition thus killing the economy and performance. Same applies to weakening the mixture.
You'd proably get away with the Colortune but if you can beg, buy, borrow or steal (only kidding on the last) a gas analyser, even a Gunsons Gastester, use that in preference to the Colortune. Remember the Colortune was developed for carburettor engines where the mixture could vary a lot more so tends to give a more average result.