Volvo Owners Club Forum - View Single Post

Stephen Edwin · Jul 17th, 2018, 11:38

Hello Jaycee,

How do you fancy a fault that takes more than a week to diagnose, and more than a week to source the correct part? Reading the forum for some time, I have seen members with 240 in that situation at home. It can happen away from home. I waited six weeks for a genuine Volvo air mass meter. Another member bought from reputed third party supplier paid more and had endless problems.

Then add in being abroad, by the side of a remote road, with a bag of tools and whatever printed out information you took with you.

Even in UK it is possible to have persistent problems that can't be resolved yet, and it can be very difficult to find a mechanic or garage with the relevant expertise.

Have I put you off?

BUT. The 240 is a great car for you and for your journeys. And there are members who travel outside the UK and/or live outside the UK with their 240. It is a good idea to use a 240 for your journeys.

I would:

Yes. Check for corrosion. Later models have far better rust protection. If you are considering an estate then as well as other places, they seem to generally rust under the rear bumper by the way. Said to be not structural, but not cheap either.
The 2.3 engine seems to be strongly favoured. Consider carefully the engine, especially the fuel/ignition system. I think broadly speaking carburettor or K Jet or LH electronic. All have their little idiosyncrasies. Which has the best support in the countries you will visit?
Re the electronic LH engines, there is for example a trinity of three parts it is wise to carry. Clifford Pope has posted the list and advice as to which of them cause which types of problem. Of the three, the crank position sensor appears to be a bit of a piglet to replace.
Also re that engine, the Air Mass Meter is a killer of a failure. And think very hard about changing the fuel related fuses for inline blade fuses.
And carry a spare coolant temperature sensor, the one for the electronic system not the one for the temp. gauge.
And learn how to diagnose the fuses/fuel pump relay problem. It is a little bogger of a problem.
And absolutely learn how to read fault codes using the built in system. There's a how to in the forum.
Re the mechanical injection K Jet it seems to be perhaps less of a bovver? Injector seals seem to be mentioned often. I don't know much about that engine. I don't know much about anything.
Carburetor engines. It looks as if one needs to choose the model of carburetor very carefully. And in older cars so more likelihood of corrosion.
Re all the engines. Fuses again, they are elderly tye and vulnerable. At least thoroughly clean the fuse box and and fit actual ceramic not plastic type fuses.
And, the cambelt! Make usre it has been changed within the time/mileage interval. And carry a spare, and the tools to fix it. I would include the Volvo tool to hold the crankshaft. You don't want to pay a garage to do that job.
When replacing coollant hoses, remember the little heater hoses at the rear of the engine going to the bulkhead. They tend to fail by a tiny little hole that causes problems and they are not easy to get at. They are likely to be neglected on many cars for sale.
Wheel size. Consider buying a car with 15" wheels, or changing the wheels. There are few tyre makes available for the 14" wheels, for 15" there is a good range of quality tyres available. If you need to get a replacement tyre abroad that might be relevant.
If you view one that isn't as described, walk away. Even, or especially, if you have made a long journey. Sorry you don't need me to tell you that but there are experiences in 240 and 700/900 parts of the forum.
Buy in very good time to go over the car before any foreign journey.

Others are far more knowledgeable than me and can fill in the many gaps, and correct probably many mistakes, in what I say.

Please enjoy becoming a 240 owner.

.

Jul 17th, 2018, 11:38	#9
Stephen Edwin Premier Member Last Online: Oct 26th, 2023 20:42 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Thurrock	Hello Jaycee, How do you fancy a fault that takes more than a week to diagnose, and more than a week to source the correct part? Reading the forum for some time, I have seen members with 240 in that situation at home. It can happen away from home. I waited six weeks for a genuine Volvo air mass meter. Another member bought from reputed third party supplier paid more and had endless problems. Then add in being abroad, by the side of a remote road, with a bag of tools and whatever printed out information you took with you. Even in UK it is possible to have persistent problems that can't be resolved yet, and it can be very difficult to find a mechanic or garage with the relevant expertise. Have I put you off? BUT. The 240 is a great car for you and for your journeys. And there are members who travel outside the UK and/or live outside the UK with their 240. It is a good idea to use a 240 for your journeys. I would: Yes. Check for corrosion. Later models have far better rust protection. If you are considering an estate then as well as other places, they seem to generally rust under the rear bumper by the way. Said to be not structural, but not cheap either. The 2.3 engine seems to be strongly favoured. Consider carefully the engine, especially the fuel/ignition system. I think broadly speaking carburettor or K Jet or LH electronic. All have their little idiosyncrasies. Which has the best support in the countries you will visit? Re the electronic LH engines, there is for example a trinity of three parts it is wise to carry. Clifford Pope has posted the list and advice as to which of them cause which types of problem. Of the three, the crank position sensor appears to be a bit of a piglet to replace. Also re that engine, the Air Mass Meter is a killer of a failure. And think very hard about changing the fuel related fuses for inline blade fuses. And carry a spare coolant temperature sensor, the one for the electronic system not the one for the temp. gauge. And learn how to diagnose the fuses/fuel pump relay problem. It is a little bogger of a problem. And absolutely learn how to read fault codes using the built in system. There's a how to in the forum. Re the mechanical injection K Jet it seems to be perhaps less of a bovver? Injector seals seem to be mentioned often. I don't know much about that engine. I don't know much about anything. Carburetor engines. It looks as if one needs to choose the model of carburetor very carefully. And in older cars so more likelihood of corrosion. Re all the engines. Fuses again, they are elderly tye and vulnerable. At least thoroughly clean the fuse box and and fit actual ceramic not plastic type fuses. And, the cambelt! Make usre it has been changed within the time/mileage interval. And carry a spare, and the tools to fix it. I would include the Volvo tool to hold the crankshaft. You don't want to pay a garage to do that job. When replacing coollant hoses, remember the little heater hoses at the rear of the engine going to the bulkhead. They tend to fail by a tiny little hole that causes problems and they are not easy to get at. They are likely to be neglected on many cars for sale. Wheel size. Consider buying a car with 15" wheels, or changing the wheels. There are few tyre makes available for the 14" wheels, for 15" there is a good range of quality tyres available. If you need to get a replacement tyre abroad that might be relevant. If you view one that isn't as described, walk away. Even, or especially, if you have made a long journey. Sorry you don't need me to tell you that but there are experiences in 240 and 700/900 parts of the forum. Buy in very good time to go over the car before any foreign journey. Others are far more knowledgeable than me and can fill in the many gaps, and correct probably many mistakes, in what I say. Please enjoy becoming a 240 owner. . Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Jul 17th, 2018 at 11:43.