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Originally Posted by Hadrien75
Here is everything wrong with it and stuff needed to be done :
- WOT : I can do wot in 1st, almost in 2nd and then 3,4,5 the car accelerates but keeps on cutting power through the acceleration, like it is cutting on purpose. If i just put the pedal at 70% then no problems it accelerates quite nicely.
I am guessing power is there even at 70% cause i touched the speed limiter at 261km/h on the autobahn.
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This screams boost leak to me. I had the same issue when one of my vacuum lines was shot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75
What are the mandatory things for a nice stage 0 ? The engine bay looks really clean but i am tempted for exemple to change all the vacuum lines... pcv is going to get changed too, should i go ipd or volvo ?
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Stage 0 is fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires (if they need it, leave them otherwise), distributor cap and rotor arm, oil and filter, PCV, and of course those vacuum lines. Regarding the PCV, get it from Volvo - its pretty reasonable priced from them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75
- I have a circular noise coming from the front of the car which is only hearable from the inside, the noise is linked to the speed of the car, the faster i go the faster the click noise appear, above 50kmh the click noise disappear.
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Not sure about this, given you say its only audible from the interior. I would have thought wheel bearing otherwise. Easy to check in any case.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75
- The engine temperature is in the middle of the gauge sitting in traffic or in the city, as soon as i hit the highway or b road, it drops to about 1/3. Thermostat is gone and stuck wide open isn't it ?
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Yes, you are quite right - thermostat has gone. Cheap and easy fix. If you have the spare money I would also replace the coolant temperature sensor. Its very easy to access once the thermostat housing is off so might as well do them both at the same time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75
- Boost gauge isn't working at all, is there any way to check it ?
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Boost gauge is controlled by a vacuum line - check the line from boost solenoid to the dashboard (this might also be caused by the boost leak causing your acceleration issues).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75
- The speedometer and digital counter is working but not the mechanical one. I heard it is a pretty commun 850 problem, is it easy to fix ?
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By mechanical one do you mean the odometer? The rotating dials that count mileage? Very common problem, easy but fiddly fix. Takes about an hour. You have to remove the dash pad and then get at the dials.
Here is a link to a very good guide -
CLICK ME
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75
- Last timing belt has been done at 325k km, i am going to have it made soon to start fresh. What are the other things to do while at it ? Water pump of course, but maybe other things too...?
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I'd do full cambelt kit, so belt, tensioners and water pump. Use genuine for all of these. Non-OEM waterpumps have a habit of failing on these cars.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75
- The air-conditioning isn't working. I think i might bring this to a specialised mechanic or is there a commun problem with those ?
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Specialised mechanic is the best bet. There are a couple of checks you can do yourself first though. A holed evaporator is very common, as it a damaged condensor. If your car does not have a pollen filter (lift the LHS scuttle panel and you'll either see a filter or you'll see a hole looking into the heater blower motor) then its very common for these to get damaged. Or, maybe, you'll be lucky like me and it will just be low on refrigerant!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75
- Being a swedish version, i have the front fog lights which are always on. Is there a way to by pass this ? I mean is this a ECU code that needs to be modify or is it hardware ?
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Not sure about front fogs, but you can stop the main lights from always being on by looking at the headlight switch. In the bottom right there will be a flat-head screw - turn that to the left and it will stop the dipped beam being on 24/7.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75
- The commuter switch for the air blower is turning but the air only blows from below the front glass windshield, i can't choose the air to be towards my head, feet, or anywhere else.
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Not sure on this, but could be caused by one of the pipes that carry the air being disconnected (perhaps something was removed in the past to fix something else and reinstalled poorly).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75
- The right side of the car under bumps has a metal noise, i guess some bushing are dead. In this case what is the most commun procedure change all the bushing and start fresh ? Or check one by one and change each which need to be changed ?
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If its from the front then its most likely the rubber mount at the top of the suspension. If its from the rear then same thing, except for the rear shocks! For the front its
this part, for the rear its this
this part.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hadrien75
Sorry for a lot of questions ! But thanks a lot in advance for the help !
Hadrien
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Not a problem, hope you manage to get them all sorted.