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Old May 3rd, 2016, 18:20   #29
bobthecabbage
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Last Online: Aug 12th, 2020 21:26
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Plymouth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TorbjornJ View Post
Hopeless mechanic here again.

The car has been at a shop and I have gotten the codes back.
After removing all the old codes (got these printed out too), these stuck:

1826 - preheat plugs circuit (the description is in Norwegian, so it's roughly translated)

1808 - camshaft position sensor

1806 - Airflow sensor (MAF?)

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1806 shouldn't make the car not start imo, so i'll ignore that for now.
The shop recommended me to start with the camshaft position sensor, so I have bought that.

I remove the old one and took a quick ohm reading of the 3 plugs, the only pins I could get a reading from was between pin 2 and 3, and it was 10.14k ohm. Same reading on both new and old sensor.

I removed the old one, it looks a little bit different on the housing/sensor part (old is metal an smaller on the end, new one is plastic).

I couldn't find any pictures when I did a google search, so just to confirm that I have the right part:



It's located there, right?



Old sensor on the right, new one the left:



When I changed the sensor, I don't feel it fits in the hole. Tryed the old one also but same there, cant really get it to fit perfectly. But I screwed the new one in an tried to start the car, but no luck. Just tries to start, over and over.

Any suggestions?
Normally there would be a description of the fault with the codes explaining where the actual fault may lie. For example 'open circuit' or 'signal voltage too low'. They haven't really given you the detail to progress with the diagnosis!

As well as the camshaft position sensor there is also a crank pulse sensor. This may be what the code was referring to as they often have similar codes and unless the garage accurately identified your vehicle the code could refer to either sensor.

See this page

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Vo...5c0f7a2&000440

or this one

http://www.gsfcarparts.com/929re0261

Eurocarparts even lists the resistance of the part as 840 Ohm. But you should be aware that these parts can test okay when cold but fail when they get warm.

This the part I would change as this is probably your RPM signal to the ECU.

The ECU will not send fuel to the engine if it does not think it is rotating.

I think the camshaft only rotates once per two crankshaft revolutions so isn't any good for generating an RPM signal.

I've changed one of these on another vehicle but couldn't tell you where it is on this engine. (That vehicle also wouldn't start).

A good indicator is if you crank the engine you should get a reading on the dash for the RPM as the starter turns the engine. If you don't or the needle jumps erratically, you know this is your problem.

For non starting with this code this is the first component I would check or change!
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