Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmicBike
I'm not sure, my normal territory is Pinto engines with carbs, so timing is entirely mechanical, with adjustment by rotating the dizzy body.
The Volvo dizzy is driven by the auxiliary shaft, which is driven by the timing belt. Ergo, if the body of the dizzy is rotated, the point at which the spark is sent to the plugs changes, and the dizzy mount is slotted to allow for this. If I remember I'll post a pic.
The one thing I do know. My belt was 1 tooth out, on the aux shaft, from the timing marks. The rotor arm was, with the No.1 cylinder at TDC, just after the No.1 plug contact. Rotating the body would correct this.
I guess I'll have a play. If the Pinto is anything to go by, very small rotational adjustments make a big difference to how the car runs. One of mine with a hot cam in it needs 14 degrees or it simply won't run, yet a standard cam is happy at 8 degrees.
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Interesting anorak-y stuff here. Im converting an earlier 230ET engine to LH2.4 for a 200 series, which means swapping the aux shaft and "empty" LH dizzy. Plan on doing the normal dots/marks on the timing belt, rotor arm pointing halfway across the thin line in the top of the dizzy casing. There is a plastic cover over the timing adjuster slot on the dizzy that would seem to be setting it at a pre set place.
surely, flywheel sensor determines timing?
Keep cheerful and banish those Lockdown blues,
Jim