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Old Jun 14th, 2022, 14:54   #8
Laird Scooby
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerthechorister View Post
When she first developed the misfire (and simultaneously ate head gasket and clutch) I was still going out with my ex, Angelle and I have been with my new GF Ade since 2013 - and one of the things the then owner of the garage at the end of my road suspected and replaced (to no avail) was indeed the lambda sensor. So I should either get it tested or test it myself. Has anyone a link to show me how to test it?
You need a multimeter set on the 0-2V range, -ve (black lead) connected to a good earth point and the other red +ve probe to the lead on the Lambda that isn't black or white. Black and white are the power connections, green or grey is usually the colour for the output. With the engine warmed up, the voltage should vary between 0-1V, centreing around 0.45V and swinging equally around that at idle fairly quickly and rhythmically. If it isn't getting clearly above 0.5V then it's faulty.



Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerthechorister View Post
The "Honest John" website agrees that lambda light on is not of itself a fail if the gases and lambda are OK - https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/askhj/a...s-illuminated-

But MoT stations apparently cannot test lambda without using the MoT gear so I would have to pay for a full MoT! So says my garage.
There is a difference between Lambda value as tested by the MoT gas tester (which can be put into manual mode and used just as a test instrument) and the Lambda sensor output. The Lambda value bears little or no relevance to the output of the Lambda sensor.
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Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........
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