Originally Posted by 240ratrod
Hi, thank you for your reply.
Fuel pump: so will the 940 injection pump fit inside the 240 tank?
No, you need to go aftermarket pump. Search for "Walbro 255" and this should fit in place of the 240 in-tank lift pump from an injection model
Speedo: So I have to track down an injection set of clocks. Regarding the diff, will the 940 diff fit straight in to the 240 housing? Both the 940 and 240 have auto boxes which I intend to keep. The B230ft was pulled with the gearbox attached so I was going to do the same with the B23A and just straight swap.
Not necessarily. The 240 went electronic speedo in 85, so any set after that will give you a speedo signal. If you went for an LH equipped 240 (91-93) then it would have the speedo signal for the ECU (although you don't need this to run and drive). The 940 diff will have 48 teeth if the car had ABS, most 240s didn't and would have 12 teeth on the diff. This will be your biggest hurdle I think, might be easier to get axle and clocks from the same donor 240.
The 940 auto box is much more developed than your 240 one, but the prop length may well be different. I think you could get a 240 with the AW71 in which case you'll need a prop from one of them
Downpipe: My first thought was to cut'n'shut but I'd prefer to up the diameter so 2.5" minimum. So I'll be making a new downpipe and complete 2.5" system.
If you're going to fabricate, then 3" will fit and provide more benefits
Loom: Yeah my plan is to thin down the 940 loom, removing the parts we won't need, ie: AC, headlights, ABS, etc. Mating this to the interior loom and the 240 was the scary bit. Did you identify where you went wrong and why it didn't work? Thank you for the link, I'll investigate this for sure.
I think my problem was at the bulkhead, I cut the 940 loom and attempted to rejoin it with connectors. There are several shielded wires and the same colours going to multiple places so I assume I got confused. For €300 a new loom was a guaranteed fix and is a lot of peace of mind for me
Cam: I know I have a desirable A cam in the 240 engine. Having read lots on the difference between the standard T and the A I am still unsure whether I'll notice the extra? If you recommend doing HG as part of the 'stage 0' then it would make sense to swap the cams over too.
It's hard to make a direct comparison as I did other mods and had a long period between drives, but the A cam feels very strong in the upper rev range. If you do swap cams, you will almost definitely have to change shims to ensure the correct valve clearance
Distributor: Did you move the set up from the head to the block? I was going to just make a hole (neatly!) in the firewall. I understand that the heater box will then be in the way...there must be a way of making it all work, or get a new heater box assembly (I used to build kit cars and we used a standalone unit).
Yes, I changed to block mounted. I would strongly advise to not cut the bulkhead, technically it's a chassis modification which is BIVA territory. You have the parts required to make it work
The plan is to take the engine to around 200bhp by way of installing a boost controller, larger FMIC, 2.5" exhaust, (A-cam maybe).
Would you pull the A-cam of leave it to sell the B23A complete? It's only done 120k miles and pulls very well with no issues, just a bit thirsty and I like more power (used to have a X5 4.8 V8 so I like power!)
200hp should be a breeze with those mods. I used a non-AC 940 intercooler which is a decent size. You should probably pull the aux shaft to run the block distributor so might as well pull the cam too, either for now or the future. Most of the value of the B23A is the forged bottom end
Again thanks and I what was going to be a quick swap is turning in to a more complex program, but who doesn't enjoy a challenge!
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