Download the iO-Play_2 install guidelines as this is a good starter for ten, page 13 of the pdf shows you which pins of each connector do what function, you can download the manual by clicking
Here :
From the
power plug (shown as black connectors) you only need the following:
Pin 1 Red Ignition switched +12V (Violet coloured wire going in to back of headunit pin 2)
Pin 4 Yellow Permanent +12V (Red thick wire going in to back of headunit pin 1)
Pin 8 Black 0V, easy to connect to bolt securing the Volvo Amplifier.
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From the
speaker ISO connector (shown as a brown pair of plugs):
Fig 11 which is the Male Speaker ISO plug, these wires are connected to the wires going to the speakers.
Fig 12 which is the female Speaker ISO plug, these wires are connected to the wires going back to the amplifier.
The speaker connector on the amp has pin numbers embossed in to the plastic of the connector, it is wired as follows:
LH R+ pin 1
LH R- pin 2
RH F+ pin 5
RH F- pin 6
LH F+ pin 7
LH F- pin 8
RH R+ pin 11
RH R- pin 12
You need to match these up to the signal wire names and colours from the iO-Play diagram, only cut one pair of twisted speaker cables at any one time then complete all connections from the four resultant wires BEFORE moving on to the next pair of speaker wires.
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If you have the center speaker you will need a five pin accessory relay such as
This one. Use this to disable the center speaker when the iO unit is active.
The pink and brown wires from the iO-Play2 cable harness are connected together, this pair of wires need connecting to
pin 86 of the relay.
Pin 85 of the relay needs to go to an ignition switch controlled 12V source, either the violet wire on
pin 2 of the connector going to the rear of the headunit of connect it to the center pin of the ciggy lighter socket.
Cut the grey/ red wire going to
pin 10 of the headunit connector, this wire feeds the center speaker, connect the grey/red wire going to the headunit to
pin 30 and the grey/red wire going to the speaker connects to
pin 87a.
Wrap the connection pins of the relay with PVC tape as there will be one unwired pin sticking out from the relay body which needs insulating, bury the relay behind the dash, I used the space to the left of the glovebox which is easy to get at.
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If I was going to do this again I would probably motor the drivers seat back to fully upright then tip the seat back rather than trying to remove it as they are bloody heavy and far from easy to extract/ refit, you will still need to disconnect the battery and electrical connections to the drivers seat but access should be fine with the seat tipped back - Mike