Quote:
Originally Posted by bdhurley
Thanks for your reply. It was a full overhaul kit from Burlen (Diaphragm, Shaft, butterfly, seals, float valve, gaskets etc. plus a new needle and jet. My isolation plate wasn’t cracked but I replaced it anyway just in case with new gaskets. The needle and jet are the fixed type and fitted the needle flush with the bottom of the piston and the pressed in the new jet 2.5mm (100 thou) from the top of the internal surface of the carb. I tuned the carb by the book. The idle trim screw fully closed seems to give best idle results.
The old seals/shaft were well worn and needed replacing anyway. I could have bought the 3 special tools needed but couldn’t justify the extra £100+ for a once off job. I was thinking there may have been an issue with the temperature compensator, I only cleaned it and installed it with new seals without fiddling with it.
Overhauling the carb, 123 distributer, new coil, replacing leaking break booster, new hoses, head off, cleaned & lapped valves, decarbed the cylinders, 2mm head gasket improved the idling but didn’t cure it. The only thing that’s worked is sticking my finger in the hose and like magic she runs smooth and steady @ 700rpm
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What did the car run like before you did the carb? What needle are you running? I replaced just the needle first off and the idle was horrible. I then fitted a adjustable jet kit so I could adjust mixture at idle, made the world of difference.
When you say you block the hose from the filler cap, did you also block the manifold nipple?
Maybe a couple of pics of your setup might help.