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Old Sep 16th, 2020, 14:29   #21
Laird Scooby
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lakenheath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griston64 View Post
If that is the case it would've happened before now if the wheels have been on the car for 25 years. I think your suspension diagnosis is closer to the cause
I might be right on the suspension Mark, it seems the most likely cause but there is another possibility, two in fact.

One is tyre choice, some tyres although having the same dimensions have more of a "balloon" in the sidewalls so could be that - doubtful though but i've heard of it happening on a particular vehicle.
On that same vehicle, it's the only one of the range designed to have 17" wheels with 215/45/17 tyres - only 10mm wider than the usual tyres fitted on the more common 16" rims fitted to the range. Some people in their wisdom have fitted other brands and/or 235/40/17 tyres and experienced the same problem.

However some have experienced it on the same brand/size of tyres originally fitted but on one side only. I mentioned this vehicle being the only one of the range that was designed for the 17" wheels with wider tyres - on the cars that experienced this contact between tyre and struts, it was found the wheel alignment was not only incorrect but the rack wasn't central when the steering wheel was in the straight ahead position.

At full lock, this would give more lock on one side than the other and potentially cause this problem. I know on the rest of the 7/9xx cars it is 3.5 turns lock-to-lock so it could be worth checking that from the straight ahead position to each full lock it is in fact 1.75 turns or 1 3/4 in old money.

If it's not, remove the IED (Airbag) and undo the nut on the steering wheel after making sure that the rack is in the central position. Make a vertical mark on the end of the steering column to show straight ahead so if the steering is inadvertently turned while removing the wheel, it can be set central before repositioning the wheel in the straight ahead position.
Refit the IED and have the front wheels aligned correctly, or do it yourself if you have the kit.

Going back to that other car i mentioned that was the only one in the range designed to have 17s etc, stops were fitted to the ends of the rack to limit the full lock movement. Often if those cars have had replacement racks the stops weren't transferred so the problem appeared although i doubt that's anything to do with the OPs problem. However a few of the other things as outlined above may well be relevant.
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Dave

Next Door to Top-Gun with a Honda CR-V & S Type Jag Volvo gone but not forgotten........
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