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Clifford Pope · Sep 29th, 2020, 08:08

It's worth tracing exactly where the oil drip is coming from before rushing in and assuming you need to change all the seals.

1) Main front crankshaft seal
2) Camshaft front seal
3) Timing cover gasket
4) Auxiliary shaft seal

In my experience timing cover gaskets are very difficult to seal 100% because of the way it bends upwards over the front cam bearing, with two sharp nips in the gasket at the bends.
It helps if you fold the new one on dry first to identify exactly where the bends come, and then pinching it a bit to make sure it fits snugly in place as you tighten the nuts.
A weep of oil from the gasket can run all the way round the seam unnoticed, and then it drips from somewhere else. Favourite places where it becomes noticeable are at the back, where oil can run down the bell housing and emerge underneath looking like a main oil seal leak, or at the front where it seeps down behind the plastic behind the belt and then comes out by the front pulley.
The camshaft oil seal does the same. But in my experience most small leakages do not get on to the timing belt - but it is really important to avoid that.

I agree about the tensioners lasting for years. I go by the noise it makes when you spin it. If it runs almost silently and freely than it's fine. If it sounds a bit rough then replace. But it's worth removing it and soaking in hot oil overnight - like prop shaft bearings they usually only need a bit of lubrication and they go on for ever then.
But do clean off all oil before refitting.

I'm always in great trepidation when first starting an engine with a new belt, in case I've done something wrong. The secret of an easy mind is to wind the engine over on a ratchet spanner slowly for several turns first, before fitting the cover, watching the belt very carefully to make sure it runs true and isn't creeping towards the edges of the pulleys.

Sep 29th, 2020, 08:08	#9
Clifford Pope Not an expert but ... Last Online: Yesterday 08:29 Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Boncath	It's worth tracing exactly where the oil drip is coming from before rushing in and assuming you need to change all the seals. 1) Main front crankshaft seal 2) Camshaft front seal 3) Timing cover gasket 4) Auxiliary shaft seal In my experience timing cover gaskets are very difficult to seal 100% because of the way it bends upwards over the front cam bearing, with two sharp nips in the gasket at the bends. It helps if you fold the new one on dry first to identify exactly where the bends come, and then pinching it a bit to make sure it fits snugly in place as you tighten the nuts. A weep of oil from the gasket can run all the way round the seam unnoticed, and then it drips from somewhere else. Favourite places where it becomes noticeable are at the back, where oil can run down the bell housing and emerge underneath looking like a main oil seal leak, or at the front where it seeps down behind the plastic behind the belt and then comes out by the front pulley. The camshaft oil seal does the same. But in my experience most small leakages do not get on to the timing belt - but it is really important to avoid that. I agree about the tensioners lasting for years. I go by the noise it makes when you spin it. If it runs almost silently and freely than it's fine. If it sounds a bit rough then replace. But it's worth removing it and soaking in hot oil overnight - like prop shaft bearings they usually only need a bit of lubrication and they go on for ever then. But do clean off all oil before refitting. I'm always in great trepidation when first starting an engine with a new belt, in case I've done something wrong. The secret of an easy mind is to wind the engine over on a ratchet spanner slowly for several turns first, before fitting the cover, watching the belt very carefully to make sure it runs true and isn't creeping towards the edges of the pulleys.