View Single Post
Old Sep 17th, 2020, 01:07   #8
Moose850's Avatar

Last Online: Sep 17th, 2020 14:17
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Norfolk, England.

Originally Posted by Shinsplintz 101 View Post
I've noticed the same thing on the last couple of pump units I've swapped out - must be the heat of the engine bay, or perhaps the heat generated by the current flowing through them when the pump motor is at full chat? Copious layers of elecrical insulation tape carefully applied also does a fine job if your nervous about cutting the supply cables to apply heatshrink.

Re: bleeding. Start on the O/S/R then N/S/R followed by O/S/F finishing N/S/F. I use a pressurised one man brake bleed kit & purge twice to be on the safe side. Brake fluid is cheap. Brake failure is not 😬.

Happy bleeding. Cheers
I have no problem with cutting the cables, it was obvious this was the way forward after removing the pins from the connector. It was obvious with the size (ID) of the heat shrink tubing that you would need to use to fit over the pins there is no way shrink ratio would be enough.

I decided to remove the motor so I could do the soldering on the bench. With the motor removed I could see the bearing in the aluminium valve body that the motor shaft locates in which is set in a small well. There was a small amount of brake fluid in the well. I assume it should not be there and is probably getting past the seal on the two sprung loaded pistons that ride against the bearing.

Is 'a little' oil always going to happen or is it a no no and a sign the seals on the pistons are on the way out? I have no problem with the ABS and the only reason I am looking at it is because of the crumbling insulation on the power cables.

If I need to get the valve body reconditioned can you recommend where?
The Power of the Moose
850 2.0L 20 valve 2WD Estate 1996.
MK1 Escort Twin Cam 1969.

Moose850 is offline   Reply With Quote