Quote:
Originally Posted by eddieace
Picked up a new multimeter, when i measure the current it starts at 1.2 then drops after 30secs to .66 then .12 for 30 secs then 0.00
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You won't be able to safely or accurately view alternator output or charging current with that meter.
You need a current clamp.
As hinted at earlier too, you really need Vida to accurately buy the correct alternator and run more specific output tests.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eddieace
Indeed it is, but assumed the alarm battery was first at fault given the dash warning that was displayed, and an abnormally low charge rate threw me another curve ball, electrical fault testing isn’t something I’ve needed to do very much so learning as I go,
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You need to accurately test before and after anyway so never assume anything with parasitic drains.
Unless I've missed it, this parasitic drain thread still doesn't say what drain you actually have when the car is shutdown or the effect on that drain by removing specific fuse or fuses.
Also, as a beginner, the video you've linked to will potentially create more problems than it solves.
You will have to leave the meter settled for 30 minutes minimum so in
my video here, I show how you need lead clamps and how a meter with min/max readings helps with recording data when you're not looking at the meter.
2 x multimeters help massively too.
One reasonable spec meter and a cheap crappy one like the one you've bought.
I'm not dissing the cheap meter as I have one too and they have many uses.
I also have videos showing how to accurately test batteries and alternator output and a multimeter buying guide.