Quote:
Originally Posted by Vakito
Thanks for the advice, I think just buying a manual car is off the cards, I'm the type of person who gets attached to cars and is hard to sell, especially considering all the work I have done on mine to get it to the condition it is in now although it was already in great condition when I bought it.
I've heard the differential ratio is different on manuals and autos. Would you recommend changing the diff too or leaving it be?
Peter
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Here is a guide I was given a few years ago when I did my 240 auto manual conversion.
You can use the pedal box as a template to drill the holes from the inside- its difficult, but easier than changing the black plate- although you could do this too.
Don't bother with the pipe- its easier to make another one out of a line of brake pipe. It took alot of bother to get the used pipe in, and after all that, it leaked around the connector.
Change the rear crank seal while you're at it. ***** Use a GENUINE VOLVO seal- I've had trouble with scan tech seals, and you definately don't want to do this again.
Here's my part list:
rear crank seal
pedal box
clutch master and slave cylinder
have pipe made up with correct fittings.
hose from pipe to clutch
gearbox (obviously) Change the oil when its on the floor- its easier than filling it under the car.
prop shaft
centre bearing
bolts
rear gearbox support beam and mount for manual gearbox
clutch kit
pilot bearing
gearstick and gubbins- fit a new shift bushing kit while you're at it- cheap from Braydons
wiring harness and relay if you're using an overdrive
bridge wire for automatic neutral safety switch.
clutch bolts! These do not come with the clutch kit
to do:
remove gearshift from inside car and bridge neutral start switch (so you don't forget later)
remove prop shaft
drain gearbox and remove filler tube
remove pipes to radiator and block off rad holes.
support gearbox
remove torque converter bolts from front- this is annoying, as you have to turn the engine over to get the next one. A large socket on the flywheel helps.
remove rear gearbox support
put thin bit of wood between cylinder head and firewall to protect
lower jack slightly under gearbox and undo two top gearbox bolts using lots of extensions and wobble bar
undo other gearbox bolts- have a helper steady
pull gearbox back ***make sure to keep torque converter on gearbox shaft or you'll get covered in oil.
take a break and change clothes if the converter fell off and dumped oil down your sleeve.
remove drive plate
remove pilot bushing
change rear oil seal- get help if you've never done this before.
fit pilot bearing
fit flywheel- make sure its in the appropriate position and bolts torqued properly
fit clutch kit and make sure its centred
fit new release bearing to gearbox fork- make sure fork is in the proper position
fit manual gearbox into position and bolt to engine
fit gearstick from above with new bushing in place
connect up reverse light
fit new gearbox mount and beam
fit propshaft and centre bearing
fit slave cylinder and hose
OK now the big work is done, its time for the fiddly part!
remove drivers seat- Trust me- you don't want to be fartin' around under the dash with the seat in place
remove automatic brake pedal box
fit manual brake pedal box WITHOUT pedals. only use a couple of bolts.
drill holes for slave cylinder.
take a break and a couple of co-codamols for the neck ache having been upside down under the dash.
remove manual pedal box, fit pedals back in place with springs, and refit box
fit master cylinder
make up pipe from master cylinder to slave cylinder
**** use new master and slave cylidners- I tried resealing and reusing the ones from the spares car, but they were knackered and I had to replace them with new ones anyway.
bleed clutch. Then bleed it again, as you will still have air in it.
Test out gear shift- you may need to adjust the reverse plate to get the 'lift' thing in the right place.
Double check everything and then enjoy the extra speed and MPG!