Quote:
Originally Posted by John Halford
HonestJoe, I read somewhere that you shouldn't grease the shaft the pinion slides out on in case grease gets onto the clutch. Having said that, it has to run freely so I will put the minimum amount on (and wipe most of it away).
Laird Scooby, very useful stuff, thanks. I have now dismantled as much as I need (I think), and have withdrawn the rotor from the body. I can see that there is still life in the brushes and the commutator looks clean, if a little scored. Everything seems to turn reasonably freely; the only thing with significant resistance is the one-way mechanism. Perhaps that doesn't matter too much as it won't rotate when transmitting the drive to the flywheel; presumably it's for when the engine fires and suddenly tries to spin the starter much faster in the same direction, which the one-way mechanism will allow.
I'm looking forward to reassembling and (bench) testing.
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You're absolutely correct on the bare minimum of grease on the starter shaft for the pinon to slide along. :tuhmbs_up:
While you rebuild it, put a little clean engine oil onto the end bushes (they're phosphor bronze so easily recognised) to soak in, preferably at least overnight - wipe off the excess before assembly though.
If you have some emery tape, give the comm a quick clean up (don't use sandpaper though) to make it bright and shiny again, the gaps between the commutator segments should ideally be about 1mm below the surface of the segments but if you're doing a minimum-effort/maximum-effect job then just clean the comm with emery tape.
You're right in your assumption about the drive pinion, it has a one-way clutch built in so the engine doesn't over-speed the starter when it fires before the key is released from the start position.
Also clean all electrical connections, surprising how much difference this can make!
