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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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Changing girling brake pads 69, 144.Views : 1319 Replies : 6Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 23rd, 2024, 13:46 | #1 |
arcturus
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Changing girling brake pads 69, 144.
After 15 years ownership it's still not something I have done. any advice,tips etc would be appreciated. Is there a problem keeping the pistons off when pads removed?
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May 24th, 2024, 21:13 | #2 |
VOC Member
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Location: Northampton
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In the absence of any other replies:
I'm not sure about the fronts as it is 45 years since I had my 145S, however, my C70 has the exact same calipers on the rears. I punch out the holding pins and remove the spring clip, then gently prise one pad away from the disc and remove. I then give the brake pedal two full presses to activate the piston - this proves that the piston is free and an opportunity to check the rubber bellows. I then crack off the bleed nipple and press the piston fully back - catching any brake fluid in a container. Once the piston is fully retracted I clean up the pad slides, lube the pad with ceramic grease and refit in the caliper. I then repeat the same process for the other three pads, checking the fluid level in the reservoir as I go. Once all pads have been refitted, I refit the pins and springs. Depending on the pads the anti-squeal shims may be loose or attached to the pad, if loose carefully refit and line up with the pad. All very straightforward and a job I do every year as part of the MOT yearly service.
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May 25th, 2024, 13:05 | #3 |
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Do be careful not to get any grease (copperease) on the pads or discs, just a smear on the pad seat areas, which are right by discs. .
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May 30th, 2024, 11:16 | #4 |
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If your old pads are very thin, the pistons will have to retract a long way to allow the new thick ones to fit. If your brake reservoir is full this piston movement can cause them to overflow. Remove some fluid with a syringe or turkey baster before starting the job. After completing the changeover, now is a good time to replace the old fluid with new. First job is to soak all of the bleed nipples with a good penetrant. Make sure they come out OK. Buying a new set beforehand is a good idea.
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May 30th, 2024, 19:10 | #5 |
Member since 1988
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Middlewich
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I replaced the well worn pads in the rear brakes of my 1969 144 a year ago, very straightforward job and Derek's suggestion regarding brake fluid is worth following.
After fitting the new pads I suffered from awful 'brake squeal' and struggled to determine why. I then noticed Brookhouse Volvo listed 'rear caliper brake pad anti-squeal shims' on their website. Ordered a set, fitted them and hey presto, squeal gone. Oddly the old pads never had any shims between them and the pistons and never squealed but the new ones (Girling) did and the shims eliminated the problem! Hope this helps? |
May 31st, 2024, 09:01 | #6 |
Torquemeister
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Machinemart sell a tool for retracting pistons on fixed-caliper brakes that you might find useful:
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/lase...pad-seperator/ They used to do an own-label one that worked perfectly on the four-piston front calipers as well as the two-piston ones; it takes a large socket (19mm or 3/4" IIRC).
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May 31st, 2024, 22:19 | #7 |
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I have never had to open up the bleed valves to force the pistons back in to the bores to fit new pads. The calipers are rather solid chunks of iron which does not mark up easily like an aluminum caliper, so a very large flat blade screw driver does the trick to lever the pistons back. Once forced back the pistons usually stay retracted unless you have some super springy rubber bellows. If the pistons do not slide back easily, you might have a problem with pitting of the bores due to corrosion in which case the calipers will require servicing. As noted, if the pads are significantly worn and you have topped up the MC reservoir you will have to remove some fluid to allow for retraction of the pads.
There are various brands of high temperature brake specific grease. Pick you favourite to lubricate the guide pins and the back of the pad. As supplied by the factory, the Girling fronts do not have anti squeal shims. The ATE fronts do have a 'tension spring' which looks like it might function as an anti rattle device; but, no anti squeal shims The Girling rears do have spacers (Volvo's term) which I assume are anti squeal shims. The ATE rears do not have spacers / shims; but, have a tension spring similar to the ATE fronts. |
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