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[mcouchard]

Hi all,

I was on this forum years ago with my V40 Mk1 (2002), I have now just had delivered a 2012 V60 DRIVe today (yes I know its not a proper Volvo engine), was a Copart special CAT N but only needs a headlight and DRL and was cheap.
Its done 83K miles, but I just wanted something cheap that I don't worry about after an unisured van driver wrote off my pristine top spec Megane Sport Tourer two weeks ago a heavy rear end collision that has damaged the chassis and left me with a bad back hence returning to Volvo seats.

I have no history on the car, (Volvo only know of the first 3 services) so I will be giving it a service and fumigating it as the previous owner smoked. Cambelt on this is overdue on age, but I'm assuming it hasn't been done as still under the mileage but is this the 8v or 16v 1.6D I though it was 8v (6 speed manual) so would I be right in assuming its not as critical as its not an interference engine?

Any advise and guidance appreciated on foilbles, things to look out for, preventative maintenance advice. I know you will say I should have got a D4 I almost did but found it had an oil leak and when I read up on the early VEA oild leask I went off the idea. This car will do a 50 mile commute 2-3 days a week mostly motorway and tow a light caravan 2-3 times a year, it should tow fine based on what I have towed with before.

[Moomoo]

With that projected mileage use I’d guess it will be little trouble . Change the fuel filter, they can cause other fault readings in my experience.

Good luck bud.👍🧐

[mcouchard]

Thanks will do is it a simple inline fuel filter of in tank?

[GrahamBrown1]

It’s in the engine bay and requires an inline hand pump to help bleed it. Make sure you use a genuine Volvo filter as these are different than the aftermarket. They don’t block half as bad.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by mcouchard

Hi all,

I was on this forum years ago with my V40 Mk1 (2002), I have now just had delivered a 2012 V60 DRIVe today (yes I know its not a proper Volvo engine), was a Copart special CAT N but only needs a headlight and DRL and was cheap.
Its done 83K miles, but I just wanted something cheap that I don't worry about after an unisured van driver wrote off my pristine top spec Megane Sport Tourer two weeks ago a heavy rear end collision that has damaged the chassis and left me with a bad back hence returning to Volvo seats.

I have no history on the car, (Volvo only know of the first 3 services) so I will be giving it a service and fumigating it as the previous owner smoked. Cambelt on this is overdue on age, but I'm assuming it hasn't been done as still under the mileage but is this the 8v or 16v 1.6D I though it was 8v (6 speed manual) so would I be right in assuming its not as critical as its not an interference engine?

Any advise and guidance appreciated on foilbles, things to look out for, preventative maintenance advice. I know you will say I should have got a D4 I almost did but found it had an oil leak and when I read up on the early VEA oild leask I went off the idea. This car will do a 50 mile commute 2-3 days a week mostly motorway and tow a light caravan 2-3 times a year, it should tow fine based on what I have towed with before.

I think it was a wise move giving the D4 a miss. Early ones especially are plagued with EGR/EGR cooler issues and high oil consumption.

Not really much to suggest... you're on the right path. Give it a good service by changing all the filters and use the correct grade oil. I suggest using genuine parts, especially for the fuel filter.

The mileage you do suits a diesel, so you shouldn't have DPF issues (in theory).

With regards to the cam belt, I'm pretty sure its still an interference engine and the belt should be changed. I wouldn't take a chance on that and get it replaced at your earliest convenience. Again, go genuine if you can and its probably worth changing the water pump whilst you're at it. These pumps fitted to these engines aren't as good as the ones in the true Volvo's.

I don't think these 1.6 diesel's are bad engines as such. They're fitted to millions of vehicles like Citroen's, Peugeot's, Volvo's, Ford's and even Mini's. The more cars that have the same engine, the more chance there's going to be of issues arising... things break. In saying that, the majority of these 1.6's are trooping up and down the motorway day in day out with minimal problems. This engine is also fitted to the Citroen Berlingo and Peugeot Partner vans... they don't always have an easy life and can be abused (fleet vehicles, courier vehicles and so on). Its more than often neglect and poor maintenance that leads to their demise... They aren't bad engines.

Look after it and it'll look after you.

[magnuz]

How was your experience with Copart ? I have been considering getting something from Copart myself, but i'm a bit reluctant to go for it, as I've heard of issues with hidden charges, vehicles not as described, delivery problems, etc.

[mcouchard]

Originally Posted by magnuz

How was your experience with Copart ? I have been considering getting something from Copart myself, but i'm a bit reluctant to go for it, as I've heard of issues with hidden charges, vehicles not as described, delivery problems, etc.

I was good so far, but I as you can't view I would say it's worth checking out a salvage yard locally to see what sort of damage is what first if unfamiliar. I decided after doing that to avoid all CAT S no matter how good it looks in the photos. I search just CAT N and CAT X, unrecorded I assume are there because of hidden mechanical reasons.
The fees are what they are all auction houses are similar now but you can use their calculator before the auction opens in the final hours of the listing to see what the cost overall is essentially add 20% to bid price, the £100 membership fee is a pain and means you want to bid to get your moneys worth but its annual so you can always come back and try to buy from the more local sites to keep the delivery cost down my delivery was £180 Wolverhampton to Nottingham which I thought was pretty good was told it could take 5-10 working days it arrived within 48 hours. There was a good deal on a car at the Scottish site but the delivery would have been £800. They are rarely roadworthy to drive home and mine had no V5 so can't tax until that arrives.
Mine was only a quarter of what the retail would be so that leaves sufficient margin for any issues bar the known damage.
Message me if you need any more info.

[magnuz]

Originally Posted by mcouchard

I was good so far, but I as you can't view I would say it's worth checking out a salvage yard locally to see what sort of damage is what first if unfamiliar. I decided after doing that to avoid all CAT S no matter how good it looks in the photos. I search just CAT N and CAT X, unrecorded I assume are there because of hidden mechanical reasons.
The fees are what they are all auction houses are similar now but you can use their calculator before the auction opens in the final hours of the listing to see what the cost overall is essentially add 20% to bid price, the £100 membership fee is a pain and means you want to bid to get your moneys worth but its annual so you can always come back and try to buy from the more local sites to keep the delivery cost down my delivery was £180 Wolverhampton to Nottingham which I thought was pretty good was told it could take 5-10 working days it arrived within 48 hours. There was a good deal on a car at the Scottish site but the delivery would have been £800. They are rarely roadworthy to drive home and mine had no V5 so can't tax until that arrives.
Mine was only a quarter of what the retail would be so that leaves sufficient margin for any issues bar the known damage.
Message me if you need any more info.

Thanks for the very informative reply. I will give it some consideration, & see what is at the nearest site to me.