Bleeding Brakes '93 240 non-abs

Hello all...
Finsihed rebuilding the front end of my beloved Torslanda! New gas shock inserts, brake pads etc...

When I took the front struts off, I replaced the brake piping on the passenger side, as I had to "molegrip" the hex nuts to get the piping off ;-)

So, now I need to bleed the brakes.. Can someone please post me an idiots guide?? My front callipers have 3 bleed screws, and I will be using a double-pipe (dual) brake bleeding kit.

by an idiots guide I really mean
[1] open these bleed screws on this calliper, and do this...

I have read and re-read the haynes, but have a bit of a mental block on this. The brakes DO work, but are really spongy and I would love to get it back to normal!!

I have read the previous posts but have to confess that I get confused with LF LR etc...

Cheers and TIA

Hutch

[Clifford Pope]

Take veryu great care in getting the bleed nipples to turn first time. They are notorious for rusting solid, and then snapping off when you try to loosen them.
Clean all the dirt away from round the threads, and apply some drops of WD40 etc, or brake fluid, and leave to soak in. Try tapping each one axially with a hammer, to break the rust joint. Use a really tight fitting ring spanner - if necessary find one from another series (AF etc) that fits more snuggly.
Apply a tiny bit of force. If it won't move, try hitting a bit harder, and using more fluid. The moment it turns a little bit, screw it back in, apply more fluid, and work it back and forth gradually increasing the range of movement.

Be warned - millions of Volvo drivers have discovered that after doing a really good job rebuilding all the calipers, pipes etc, the pedal is still soft. The reason is often that they have enthusiastically pumped the pedal to the floor when bleeding. This moves the internal pistons and seals over a new section of bore in the Master Cylinder, which may well be slightly rusty or be deposited in dirt. This damages the seals slightly, so you get internal leakage.
NEVER press the pedal further than it goes in normal use, or be prepared for needing a new MC.

Clifford, as ever, invaluble advice.. Will go out at lunchtime and wd40 all nipples up !!

I have read about the MC problem before.. thats why I think I'll opt for the "one-man" bleeding kit rather than trust the wife to just press the brakes in the "normal" range!

OK, can anyone give me the correct sequence of wheels...

Front Calipers have 3 nipples, which do I open when ?>>

I have read the haynes, but seem to have a mental block on understanding the dual circuits, and how they relate to the 3 nipples on the front callippers...


Hutch

[Clifford Pope]

I think Haynes does give you the order. It is a real pain to do it, because it doesn't just mean going round wheel by wheel.

I think the general principle is to bleed the furthest brakes from the MC first, and then work backwards. That said, I've also heard someone else saying it makes more sense to clear the nearest air first, then work outwards. Not much help!

I must admit that when I did it once, with a pressure bleeder thing(spare wheel plus large bottle of fluid connected to MC reservoir), I simply jacked up each wheel in turn and let all air slowly out of each nipple, then moved on to the next wheel. No particular order - just the most convenient for access.
But I don't think I had drained the entire system so was not starting from scratch, and I have heard there are sticking points where air locks tend to accumulate, such as the octopus pressure switch thing and the pressure limiters on the rear pipe runs.

There will be a real expert along soon, I hope.

Best wishes,
Cliff

cheers cliff..

As ever much appreciated
:-)

[penninepullman]

Have had to bleed the brakes on our 1982 244 several times since we bought it in 1986. These comments add to those you already have.

The braking system is a triangular dual circuit ie. each circuit has both front wheels and one rear. The order in which brakes are bled according to Haynes manual has been changed by Volvo in the later years of production. I have always used the earlier method of bleeding one circuit at a time. The Haynes manual shows starting with left rear; which according to genuine Volvo manual is for LHD cars! RHD drive cars should start with right rear then right front (2 nipples - outer and inner (not top)), then same on left front. [The two nipples are to avoid air locks]. For the second circuit start at left rear, then right front (top nipple) and finally left front (top nipple).
According to Haynes, for later cars (whatever years that means!) it says bleed front left, front right, rear left then rear right. Bearing in mind their previous error is this RHD or LHD or??

Because of the number of bleed points (8), I have always used an Eezibleed system. This uses spare wheel to pressurise system. If you use one I recommend no more than 15psi in spare wheel; and make sure caps onto resorvoir and Eezibleed are tight, or brake fluid will be pumped out. Unless you have changed to silicone fluid (which I did in 1987)you will find that the brake fluid will be a wonderful paint stripper!! Plenty of cloths/rags around resorvoir and on 'chassis' rail will help to absorb any spillages. As the Eezibleed will completely fill the resorvoir you will need to remove excess (above MAX line). This is easiest done with a poultry baster - they were 90p in Morrisons last time I looked.
Finally Cliff's reference to the 'octopus'; the pressure warning valve. This is located on the nearside 'chassis' rail, and may need resetting after bleeding. You will know if it does as the Brake Failure light will stay on on the dash. Just remove electrical connection, then unscrew the switch; remove and immediately replace. This has allowed the piston in the valve to re-centralise between the two circuits. You can remove this switch before bleeding the brakes and refit afterwards; I usually do this as I had to on the 144 model; 'cos if you don't on that one it breaks the plunger!

Many thanx..

Amazing that sometimes all you need is someone to explain things in their own words, and it makes sense !!

will try tonight !


hutch

[Peter D]

They stopped fitting the octapus brake warning switch on the 1993 240 I guess they were running of of parts. Regards Peter

[Clifford Pope]

Mine has one. Registered December 93.