Alternator brushes help needed

fredjones · Oct 18th, 2009, 00:40

my 1993 volvo 460 has alternator problems if the brushes are worn unevenly, (which they are) would this effect the charge going to the battery, any answers would be much appriciated, i have not got much money and unemployed at the moment so wasting money in scrap yards like i have done is a no no-------Fred

Baffler · Oct 18th, 2009, 02:10

See Deadpheasants thread where he replaced the complete voltage regulator. Can't imagine it was too expensive. Maybe he can advise where he got it? I'm not sure if the brushes can be replaced seperately...

Richard_TD · Oct 18th, 2009, 07:15

It doesn't matter, as long as the alternator is still charging. Obviously one of them will wear out before the other but that could be years away.

In the absence of a meter there is a crude way to check if your alternator is charging. Drive up to a wall or the back of another car, let the engine idle and put your headlights on. Then rev the engine. You should be able to see the lights get slightly brighter.

The last time I bought a brush/regulator pack it was a shade over £10 from LSUK but that was years ago. I tried to get one in 2006 and couldn't find anybody who sold them.

fredjones · Oct 18th, 2009, 08:44

I have tried lights shining on wall and revving engine (as recomended) the lights stay the same so i think no charge going to battery and yet i put my maplins tester on negative battery terminal and positive on alternator B+ and all the lights light up saying charge going to battery, this is very confusing, sorry for the pun but can anyone put some light on my problem. i have read Deadpheasants thread but not helpful with my problem.
I checked the brushes even though they are uneven there is a lot of brushes left in regulator.

Richard_TD · Oct 18th, 2009, 09:02

The way to be sure is to put a voltmeter on the battery. It should show about 12V with the engine off and about 14V with the engine running (you may have to take it slightly above idle to achieve this). With the engine running it should maintain 14V even when the lights/heater etc are turned on.

fredjones · Oct 18th, 2009, 10:32

Thanks Richard i will try and get a volt meter, if it does not recieve a constant 14v does that mean the alternator is knackered.

Richard_TD · Oct 18th, 2009, 11:17

Often the voltage is written on the back of the brush pack and it tends to be 14.4V. I wouldn't worry if it doesn't quite make that but you really want to see more than 13V. If this test fails it means that the alternator isn't charging the battery but that doesn't necessarily mean it's knackered.

There should be a cable connecting between the engine block (or gearbox) and the car body (or battery negative terminal). Check the condition of this. If it looks iffy connect a jump lead between the alternator body and the battery negative terminal and run your tests again.

Also follow the alternator cable as far as you can and check that all leads to the battery are secure.

Paul240480 · Nov 1st, 2009, 16:10

Hi 'FJ'

As far as I understand, the alternators themselves rarely fail. It is more often than not just the 'brush-box' or 'voltage regualtor' (same thing).

When mine went (240 tho'), I could see a feint glow of the ignition light at low revs, which went out on higher revs - similar test to the headlight one.

Got a new one from Braydon Motors & it was £10 (+£4.99 P&P to France) Just two screws on the rear of the alternator on mine, guess yours would have an inbuilt regulator too?

Good Luck.

deadpheasant · Nov 5th, 2009, 08:34

Hi,

I got a new voltage regulator unit from a supplier on ebay, it was about £17 all in and I managed to change it myself with out any proper mechanical knowledge. It was relatively easy, but some awkward things in the way, like the dipstick tube, which you can unbolt. Just make sure you get the right regulator for your alternator.

If you need any advice, just let me know.

fredjones · Dec 1st, 2009, 20:47

Hi to everyone who are trying to help me, i have checked alternator with multimeter and the reading is 1 volt, the brushes are ok could it be the wiring inside the alternator, i have read the regulator on 460`s are internal does this mean i have to take it to an auto electrician, thanks Fred

Oct 18th, 2009, 00:40	#1
fredjones New Member Last Online: Jul 6th, 2010 07:43 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Runcorn	Alternator brushes help needed my 1993 volvo 460 has alternator problems if the brushes are worn unevenly, (which they are) would this effect the charge going to the battery, any answers would be much appriciated, i have not got much money and unemployed at the moment so wasting money in scrap yards like i have done is a no no-------Fred

Oct 18th, 2009, 02:10	#2
Baffler Premier Member Last Online: Jun 17th, 2024 13:57 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Co. Limerick, Ireland	See Deadpheasants thread where he replaced the complete voltage regulator. Can't imagine it was too expensive. Maybe he can advise where he got it? I'm not sure if the brushes can be replaced seperately... __________________ Liam... '96 854 TDI SE, '99 V70 2.5D S, '05 C70 2.0T Collection, '05 S80 2.0T SE, '15 V70 D4 SE Lux Nav.

Oct 18th, 2009, 08:44	#4
fredjones New Member Last Online: Jul 6th, 2010 07:43 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Runcorn	I have tried lights shining on wall and revving engine (as recomended) the lights stay the same so i think no charge going to battery and yet i put my maplins tester on negative battery terminal and positive on alternator B+ and all the lights light up saying charge going to battery, this is very confusing, sorry for the pun but can anyone put some light on my problem. i have read Deadpheasants thread but not helpful with my problem. I checked the brushes even though they are uneven there is a lot of brushes left in regulator. Last edited by fredjones; Oct 18th, 2009 at 08:49.

Nov 1st, 2009, 16:10	#8
Paul240480 Ovlovnut Last Online: Jun 5th, 2024 18:25 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Nivillac View Photos By: Paul240480	Hi 'FJ' As far as I understand, the alternators themselves rarely fail. It is more often than not just the 'brush-box' or 'voltage regualtor' (same thing). When mine went (240 tho'), I could see a feint glow of the ignition light at low revs, which went out on higher revs - similar test to the headlight one. Got a new one from Braydon Motors & it was £10 (+£4.99 P&P to France) Just two screws on the rear of the alternator on mine, guess yours would have an inbuilt regulator too? Good Luck. __________________ 2004 V70 2.4SE Auto 'The Welshmobile’ 2002 Laika Ecovip 400i ( Motorhome on an Iveco 2.8TD) http://www.gitessouthbrittany.com/ http://moncopainmonchien.jimdo.com/

Nov 5th, 2009, 08:34	#9
deadpheasant New Member Last Online: Jan 11th, 2011 15:16 Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Bradford	It's quite easy to do Hi, I got a new voltage regulator unit from a supplier on ebay, it was about £17 all in and I managed to change it myself with out any proper mechanical knowledge. It was relatively easy, but some awkward things in the way, like the dipstick tube, which you can unbolt. Just make sure you get the right regulator for your alternator. If you need any advice, just let me know.

Oct 18th, 2009, 07:15	#3
Richard_TD Master Member Last Online: Mar 13th, 2020 17:15 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Fife	It doesn't matter, as long as the alternator is still charging. Obviously one of them will wear out before the other but that could be years away. In the absence of a meter there is a crude way to check if your alternator is charging. Drive up to a wall or the back of another car, let the engine idle and put your headlights on. Then rev the engine. You should be able to see the lights get slightly brighter. The last time I bought a brush/regulator pack it was a shade over £10 from LSUK but that was years ago. I tried to get one in 2006 and couldn't find anybody who sold them.

Oct 18th, 2009, 09:02	#5
Richard_TD Master Member Last Online: Mar 13th, 2020 17:15 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Fife	The way to be sure is to put a voltmeter on the battery. It should show about 12V with the engine off and about 14V with the engine running (you may have to take it slightly above idle to achieve this). With the engine running it should maintain 14V even when the lights/heater etc are turned on.

Oct 18th, 2009, 10:32	#6
fredjones New Member Last Online: Jul 6th, 2010 07:43 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Runcorn	Thanks Richard i will try and get a volt meter, if it does not recieve a constant 14v does that mean the alternator is knackered.

Oct 18th, 2009, 11:17	#7
Richard_TD Master Member Last Online: Mar 13th, 2020 17:15 Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Fife	Often the voltage is written on the back of the brush pack and it tends to be 14.4V. I wouldn't worry if it doesn't quite make that but you really want to see more than 13V. If this test fails it means that the alternator isn't charging the battery but that doesn't necessarily mean it's knackered. There should be a cable connecting between the engine block (or gearbox) and the car body (or battery negative terminal). Check the condition of this. If it looks iffy connect a jump lead between the alternator body and the battery negative terminal and run your tests again. Also follow the alternator cable as far as you can and check that all leads to the battery are secure.

Dec 1st, 2009, 20:47	#10
fredjones New Member Last Online: Jul 6th, 2010 07:43 Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Runcorn	Hi to everyone who are trying to help me, i have checked alternator with multimeter and the reading is 1 volt, the brushes are ok could it be the wiring inside the alternator, i have read the regulator on 460`s are internal does this mean i have to take it to an auto electrician, thanks Fred

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