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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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99 s40 lower balljoint replacement-pitfallsViews : 1736 Replies : 9Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 22nd, 2015, 10:28 | #1 |
Miketwovolvos
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99 s40 lower balljoint replacement-pitfalls
Just passing this on for the benefit of those with a clunking front end over speed bumps and play in the lower control arm balljoint. Haynes says you can't replace them, but they are pressed into the control arm and the balljoints are available cheap 8 quid or so or better 12-14 quid. In my experience with Chinese-made stuff, don't go cheap. My first prob was that my Chinese-made balljoint scissor type splitter snapped, so I struggled to remove the joint. You can only use an open ended spanner to undo the bolt (19mm)on the balljoint, which is not that easy as it has a plastic threadlock type thing in it. Improvised a tool to crack open the balljoint and then its obvious why the control arm has to come off to get the balljpoint out, there is no space to work around the hub/strut assembly. The pivot bolt at the top of the control arm is a 17 mm long nut and bolt and its torqued at 66 so its not too hard to remove, although you might have to remove the bottom engine cover to get at the nut. The back bolts that (17 again I think, 66 torque)fit to the car body just go into captive threads in the body so they are not too hard to remove. The problems start when you try to remove the balljoint. I tried pressing it out with the vice, but no chance. A hydraulic press is ideal, but you can whack it repeatedly with an old socket (over it) with a lump hammer. Support the edge of the control arm on some wood. Eventually it comes off, but a bit of heat to the end of the arm really helps this plus some WD40. Next, clean up the arm and check the bushings. If they are OK, I treated the control arm with phosphoric acid (40%) then some underbody paint. Youtube guys say you can tap the joints into the arm with a hammer-Ha Ha Ha, no you can't. If you measure the new balljoint it is slightly oversized, but it has little ridges on the edge which collapse when it is inserted to really grip the arm. This is definitely a once only insertion, so to speak. Indeed, pressing the joint in is not easy at all. I made a steel tube (from part of an old 940 exhaust) which fitted over and cleared the top of the joint and then used a thick washer on the bottom of the joint so I didn't distort the balljoint base . Then I put it in a vice. It is really a struggle to get it to go in straight, but with a little WD it will go in. Then getting the circlip on really finds your Chinese circlip pliers out...Next, get the rubber boot and degrease the inside. THen degrease the balljoint shaft and then fit the boot over the balljoint shank. This makes it easy to engage the balljoint shank with the hub without getting any grease in there, as it is a friction joint and no grease should be around. Then you can replace the control arm, by engaging the pivot first and getting the bolt through, followed by the back bolts. Then the balljoint, pivot bolt and rear bolts are all in finger tight, then its all torqued up. The balljoint nut should be 55 lbft but you can only get an open ended spanner in, as it will trap a ratchet ring spanner...(nasty) so that means just make it fairly tight. I use a Metrinch spanner, which does not stress the edges of the bolt, which really helps. Forgot to mention, that you shouldn't torque up fully the control arm pivot joint until the car is sitting settled on the road, which by the side of the road is a pain. I have to say that it was hard work without a hoist and I think its one of those jobs you do if you are a bit of a fanatic, have really good tools made by an organisation other than a Chinese factory or if you are a bit broke or marooned on a small island. I am sure many of you out there would do it quicker though!
Last edited by Miketwovolvos; Aug 22nd, 2015 at 13:17. |
Aug 23rd, 2015, 15:55 | #2 |
VOC Member
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Your description of the job is exactly as I imagined it would be, a right ball ache. That's the reason I have always dropped two complete arms on when needed. Makes it so much easier.
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Aug 23rd, 2015, 16:27 | #3 | |
I've Been Banned
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Quote:
A mate of mine just wacks the old ones out with a old hammer and pushes them in with a great big c clamp. |
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Aug 23rd, 2015, 17:00 | #4 |
VOC Member
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I know some people pay good money to have pain inflicted, but not me, I prefer to pay and leave the pain to others. Also I would worry that they might come loose, given the stresses on suspension parts.
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Aug 23rd, 2015, 20:15 | #5 |
Master Member
Last Online: Jun 1st, 2024 14:33
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I did that once,it popped out on the test drive.I was lucky as i was driving slowly.Swapped the whole arms after that.
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Aug 25th, 2015, 21:41 | #6 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Mar 4th, 2020 00:01
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Same happened with me slevin I spent all that time naffing around with the ball joints and for them to drop out after a 5 minute drive. New arms from Febi wish I had just done that first. Well done for giving it a go and I hope they stay in place for you
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Jun 26th, 2017, 12:39 | #7 |
Miketwovolvos
Last Online: Apr 26th, 2024 17:14
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16K miles later and its all good
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Jul 12th, 2019, 15:30 | #8 | |
Miketwovolvos
Last Online: Apr 26th, 2024 17:14
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Quote:
AAAAAREGGGHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ALL THIS HAS JUST HAPPENED TO ME AGAIN BUT WORSE AS THE BALLJOINT WAS TOO SMALL SO I HAD TO SHIM IT!!>>HAVE I LEARNED NOTHING IN 4 years? Last edited by Miketwovolvos; Jul 12th, 2019 at 15:41. |
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Jul 12th, 2019, 15:35 | #9 |
Miketwovolvos
Last Online: Apr 26th, 2024 17:14
Join Date: Apr 2015
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Have calmed down now...yes, many places want to sell you the whole arm with its two bushings and a balljoint. The annoying thing is that the bushings last forever if properly fitted (as the guy above did with the car down on its wheels) So the balljoint is the wear item. The arms are about 50-60 quid, but the joints are 10-15 quid depending on quality..if my point about the smaller balljoint diameters is true, then if my shimming efforts fail, it may well be a new control arm in the future its so much easier, apart from the pain in the backside to remove the balljoint from the hub
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Jul 12th, 2019, 15:37 | #10 |
Miketwovolvos
Last Online: Apr 26th, 2024 17:14
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Birmingham
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in fact, a friend of mines Chinese balljoint spitter snapped on him too..their tools are rubbish..I bought a pickle fork which does the job. I love it when Edd China just whacks them with a hammer...I have never ever had a balljoint come off with that, it is always a terrible struggle
Last edited by Miketwovolvos; Jul 12th, 2019 at 15:40. |
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