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Air Mixture Hose Replacement

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Old Sep 9th, 2006, 12:23   #1
AUS T5
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Default Air Mixture Hose Replacement

Hi all,
my electrics fault light has been on for some while now, a triangle with a funny symbol in it, so I was in Carlisle on Friday and got the boys at Volvo there to give it the once over. They were very helpful considering it was 3.30 in the arvo, and they were supposed to log off at 4.
They came up with the fault codes 322 & 535 and located the fault as being a very small rubber elbow at the left hand end of the manifold which had a hole in it. Because the engine was too hot, they couldn't change it then, so I asked how easy is it to do and where is it. The mechanic pointed it out to me and it looked like an impossible task unless I removed the power steering pump, it was such a tight squeeze. He said na, just use a pair of long nose pliers, no problems.
Out I went this morning and got stuck in. I removed the radiator hose from the engine end to give me a little more room. What a dog it was to remove though, it just kept crumbling, apart from the end bits, which were glued to the lower pipe and clipped and glued to the manifold end. Three hours later it is finally all clear so then I try to get the new one back on, and what a pig that was!! With my long nose pliers I tried pushing it down onto the pipe which seemed to move about, nothing firm to push on to, bugger. In the end (another hour) I finally managed to nip it against the manifold and slip it on. My only worry is that it has only gone on for about half an inch and I am worried that it might push back off if it is under any pressure so my question is does the line have pressure? or will it be ok like that.
Thanks......
The top end went on comparatively easy.
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Old Sep 9th, 2006, 12:44   #2
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Originally Posted by AUS T5 View Post
Hi all,
my electrics fault light has been on for some while now, a triangle with a funny symbol in it, so I was in Carlisle on Friday and got the boys at Volvo there to give it the once over. They were very helpful considering it was 3.30 in the arvo, and they were supposed to log off at 4.
They came up with the fault codes 322 & 535 and located the fault as being a very small rubber elbow at the left hand end of the manifold which had a hole in it. Because the engine was too hot, they couldn't change it then, so I asked how easy is it to do and where is it. The mechanic pointed it out to me and it looked like an impossible task unless I removed the power steering pump, it was such a tight squeeze. He said na, just use a pair of long nose pliers, no problems.
Out I went this morning and got stuck in. I removed the radiator hose from the engine end to give me a little more room. What a dog it was to remove though, it just kept crumbling, apart from the end bits, which were glued to the lower pipe and clipped and glued to the manifold end. Three hours later it is finally all clear so then I try to get the new one back on, and what a pig that was!! With my long nose pliers I tried pushing it down onto the pipe which seemed to move about, nothing firm to push on to, bugger. In the end (another hour) I finally managed to nip it against the manifold and slip it on. My only worry is that it has only gone on for about half an inch and I am worried that it might push back off if it is under any pressure so my question is does the line have pressure? or will it be ok like that.
Thanks......
The top end went on comparatively easy.
heat the elbow in hot water and use long nose pliers...remover the top hose too ...the hot water will expand the elbow so it fits on easliy....if you slip a small cable tie round it you can tighten it too when it is on....bit fiddly but "patience is a virtue" comes to mind on this job...lol
cheers
jod
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Old Sep 9th, 2006, 13:43   #3
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Thanks Jod, the old hot water trick, I should have thought of that.

On a totally different tack, I seem to remember you saying a while back you had you car re chipped with a crowd down near Birmingham I think. How do you find this new set-up, worth the investment? no glitches?.
Cheers, Phil.
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Old Sep 9th, 2006, 14:20   #4
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Thanks Jod, the old hot water trick, I should have thought of that.

On a totally different tack, I seem to remember you saying a while back you had you car re chipped with a crowd down near Birmingham I think. How do you find this new set-up, worth the investment? no glitches?.
Cheers, Phil.
yes phil i have a 304bhp rica fitted by volvotuning at bromsgrove, the
difference is staggering....
there is a lot of argument about whether or not i am producing 304 at the crank or not, which i doubt but i am happy with the results.....
don @ kalmar union can do a 275 mte upgrade by computer rather than the chip change that vt offer.....sw autos also do a remap facility but they are very secretive of what they can do....i have pm'd bobcat to see what they can do for me but i have not heard back....
i am going to test dons mte soon and see how this feels in comparison to what i am currently running.....
i would say that i am not pushing as much power as say, pedro fandango, bb54 or stuart volvos old car as they are using manual boost controllers which will give more power but can lead to con rod damage if the boost is coming in too early....
there are many applications you can try, the best remap i have tried is the rica....
cheers
jod
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Old Sep 9th, 2006, 15:30   #5
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I have just asked them for a quote, we will see where this leads. It would be nice to get back to Brisbane and be able to cream the local Holden & Ford V8's off at the lights now and again, (as they currently do me) pure bliss for this 60 year old boy racer lol.
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Old Sep 9th, 2006, 18:44   #6
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Originally Posted by jod t5 View Post
yes phil i have a 304bhp rica.
i would say that i am not pushing as much power as say, pedro fandango, bb54 or stuart volvos old car
he he, very flattering jod but my motor isnt on a par with yours, peds or anywhere near SW's, if only !!!

you and ped are boosting 20 ish psi and ped also has the benifit of rapid spool up via the decat.
im only boosting 14 psi, but will be a whole lot more rapid when i get off my lazy harris and fit the decat and 55mm I/C.

id dearly love to know what bhp/torque increases an extra 4psi via a MBC gives tho cos after swapping to shell V power, i must say she's absolutely flying.

your right about the boost coming in early with the MBC, i love the torque steer savagry but i tend to feed it on now rather than stamping it at low revs.

wayne
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Old Sep 10th, 2006, 10:05   #7
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hi jod,after i posted that, i saw on another thread that your only boosting to 15 ish psi, have you turned the boost down a bit mate ?

i was under the impression that the 304 removed/increased the air/boost limit and they all ran at 1.3 bar +, or am i mistaken?

im sure ive read pleanty of posts on the T5 forum of 304 converted cars boost needles flying past the white section and getting to 2 oclock +.

wayne
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Old Sep 10th, 2006, 19:33   #8
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hi jod,after i posted that, i saw on another thread that your only boosting to 15 ish psi, have you turned the boost down a bit mate ?

i was under the impression that the 304 removed/increased the air/boost limit and they all ran at 1.3 bar +, or am i mistaken?

im sure ive read pleanty of posts on the T5 forum of 304 converted cars boost needles flying past the white section and getting to 2 oclock +.

wayne
Just thought i'd jump in.

I had the rica 304 upgrade at the begining of August and yes my boost guage goes off the scale now.Adam at v.t said thecars guages were not that acurate so to prove it he connected up a huge guage from his workshop and off we went down the dual carriageway.His guage peaked at 1.2 bar which was what he was looking for saying everything was nice and safe. Watching the Volvo guage go off the scale is great fun as before the upgrade it would go to the 3/4 mark and stay there.
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Old Sep 11th, 2006, 07:22   #9
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His guage peaked at 1.2 bar which was what he was looking for
yeah mike i recon thats about right 17.5psi...ish

Quote:
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hi jod,after i posted that, i saw on another thread that your only boosting to 15 ish psi, have you turned the boost down a bit mate ?
lol....mine fluctuates with the wind wayne, i think i had a small inlet manifold leak at the elbow which having been replaced appears to have got her back to running a'ok...., as my aux boost gauge is naffed in not too sure of the exact figures but i can catagorically confirm i have never been over the instrument panel white line, although i would consider the end of the white line to be two o'clock.....
Quote:
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im sure ive read pleanty of posts on the T5 forum of 304 converted cars boost needles flying past the white section and getting to 2 oclock +.

wayne
lmao..., there are some cracking cars on there wayne as we both know but there is also some "poetic licence".... i think you may find that if there are any they may well have other goodies such as a 19t and/or 3" downpipe race cat (no cat?) etc...
Im not familiar with the rica map in so far as to whether or not it increases the fuel and air settings to avoid the excess air cut out or knocking due to excess retarding issues, that would be a question for hamish or adam
the map does however transform the delivery of power....of that there is no doubt....wayne when you are next down my way you can try my car on the rica and std ecu for comparison purposes...
cheers
jod
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