V70: Suspension Shockabsorber clunk

[auyt]

12/07 build V70 at 60K miles the front shocks have a clunk on rough roads the dealer tells me I need new shocks, but before I get it done is this common or am I being told a furfy, I haven't had a chance to actually investigate as its my daughters car.
If I do replace them with what, suggesting please as I plan to do it myself

[Tannaton]

Might be the top mounts.... is one sitting higher than the other?

[auyt]

Originally Posted by Tannaton

Might be the top mounts.... is one sitting higher than the other?

Thank you I'll have it checked, are top mounts a known thing?

[green van man]

Also check the anti roll bar drop links.
Mine has a clunk from the suspention, found the drop links well past their best. Volvo wanted £36+ each, I baught Febi Bilstien from my independant factor for £14+ each

If it is the strut I belive they are monroe units but not sure. Some on here have used Bilstien B4 or B6 to replace volvo struts.

Paul.

[auyt]

I need to get the car and have a good poke around, as as good as my local dealer is they wanted stupid money (1000UKP) to do the swirl valves.

I got a price (390UKP) for KONI shocks from a local place.

I did ask about the stabilizer bar but the dealer recons its shocks but I am suspicious

[Model flyer]

Shocks failing are fairly common at that mileage . Unlike Volvo's of old the newer generation suffer from the accountant ot Ford syndrome and cheaper items fitted to save a few coppers like shock wont last very long. They often don't show any signs of leakage and will often pass the bounce test, Once off the car you will see how bad they are. Check top mounts when stripped out and replace if in doubt . Changing shocks will restore ride to like new . Any Non Volvo garage you can trust should be able to do the job much cheaper than a main stealer.

[40t]

Have just had the dampers changed (for Sachs - £310) on my 73k '08. Nothing obviously wrong with the originals (MOT just passed), apart from a crashy ride, but the handling is hugely improved.

[Tatsfield]

If failing shocks can still pass the bounce test and not be leaking, what sort of mileage on ordinary blacktop roads could you expect before failing might start. I don't mind spending preventive maintenance but once the things are off the car for inspection it's not worth just putting them back for the short residue of their life and so replacement is the only real option. So I wouldn't want to go for it too soon. Any advice?

[40t]

I suppose the car's age may play a part, given its weight, rather than just mileage. In my case, the only reason I changed them was the way road imperfections were being transmitted through the body - so i was taking a costly risk if it hadn't resolved it (it did). The handling improvement came as a great surprise. But then, unless people have owned the car since its youth, they may have no idea how it should handle, or, even if they do, the deterioration's been so slow they perhaps haven't noticed. Whether, in retrospect, the handling deterioration was severe as to affect safety, I'm not at all sure - perhaps in extremis, say in an accident avoidance situation, it might just make the difference. All I can say is that, coming south off the M5 at 11a, onto the 417, there's a tightening slip road, affected by subsidence. Before, at moderate speeds, it cork-screwed - now, at a higher speed, it's completely settled.

[Model flyer]

Originally Posted by Tatsfield

If failing shocks can still pass the bounce test and not be leaking, what sort of mileage on ordinary blacktop roads could you expect before failing might start.

They will start to fail and you may notice a odd clunk/knocking especially when driving over light bumps uneven surfaces or cobbles. The sound is very annoying. On bigger bumps they seem but a bit harsh . I replaced drop links and went over the suspension with a fine tooth comb and wasn't sure if the shocks had gone . As soon as they were off the car the wear was obvious . The wear is mainly internal with no leaks or external signs .