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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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To strip or not to stripViews : 736 Replies : 8Users Viewing This Thread : |
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#1 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Jun 19th, 2024 13:09
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Berkhamsted
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After some advice.
The Amazon i bought from a dealer in SA is here and I'm due to collect it soon. I was thinking of using it a bit before putting it away for the winter. I am now thinking to get it in the garage and start working on it. I was going to check it over for any structural defects and then start fixing it up. I was going to strip it underneath and re coat with hammerite, then remove clean and powder coat the rear and front cross members etc. and fit new suspension. Then do the inside, strip clean and do some sort of coating/paint before refitting everything. Would you recommend a re-wire at this stage (it's a 66 estate) as it would be easier? I'll be removing the engine and gearbox before fitting a type 9 which has been rebuilt, (is a short shift kit useful). Any tips would be gratefully received. I'm in Hertfordshire in the UK and not too bad with the tools but you can never get too much helpful advice. Thanks in advance. Jack |
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#2 | |
marches on his stomach
Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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On the whole if you want to drive the vehicle I would do as little as possible. Consider the first six months to twelve months as an extended test drive. There's bound to be something that will need attention. The danger of pulling things to bits too soon is that you end up with the "Forth Bridge effect" - you start with something - find something else - if you are not careful you will keep taking things apart and end up with a pile of bits. I've done this for four vehicles in my life and still haven't learnt! ###### Note about Hammerite => I quite like it for parts on a vehicle where they need a bit of help but will probably have to be helped later on. I only use it on whole components. If you want to use it to stop rust I think you need to lower expectations. It is kinda OK but as a single component paint it isn't going to get anywhere near to a two component solution. Hammerite is not very good at being chip resistant. It scratches easily and when applied by brush will more often than not look pretty crappy especially if you use the gloss top coats. I think Hammerite has its place but I would argue not on the underside of a car. Even though the recipe in Europe has been changed by Axo Nobel (who make it here) I think (think) it is still an MEK thinner based paint. This can cause trouble when used with conventional automotive paints. ###### If you are worried about the underside of the vehicle I would consider Dinitrol products. (Make sure you read and understand the advice - especially if injecting products into cavities - it is possible to cause more trouble than leaving stuff bare) ###### On the whole the biggest trouble a vehicle has coming from a warm dry-ish climate to Northern Europe is the condition of its seals. On the whole water flows downwards - examine all seals before driving in the rain. There is a product called Aerospace303 that used to be sold by Frosts in the UK. This stuff is excellent stuff for looking after seals.
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! Last edited by Army; Oct 30th, 2020 at 12:47. |
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#3 |
Chief Bodger
Last Online: Yesterday 19:48
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Aberdeen
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Get it on a lift and have a good poke around.
If I remember correctly are you not retired? If so I'd think twice about trying to strip the underneath by lying on the ground unless you have access to a lift. It's a horrible and hard job upside down on the ground. There is a company near Glasgow called Preserve and Protect and will strip all the old underseal and rust proof the estate for about £700. They will also do any welding that is needed. Will be similar companies in England but they have a good reputation. The suspension can be a pain to do especially if lying on the ground without proper tools. Up to you but probably money well spent to book her into a garage to do the suspension and alignment. You can then concentrate on the nicer jobs over winter and tinker away.
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One day I will get rid of all of the rust. |
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#4 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 19:44
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: STANDISH LANCASHIRE
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I would avoid using Hammerite- if ever a paint is over exaggerated then this is it:~
As always preparation is the key- clean all surfaces as best you can & if down to bare metal give it a coat of Jenolite rust remover/converter (remove heavy rust) once dry paint the areas with a Zink rich primer or Red Oxide primer. Top coat in something like chassis black or one of the better brands rust preventative paints. Finish with the likes Dinatrol wax treatment. The proper base treatments of the metal are the key to keeping rust at bay. Bob. |
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#5 | |
marches on his stomach
Last Online: Feb 11th, 2022 03:15
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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http://www.oldtimerautosite.nl/roest_test.htm It is all in Dutch so if you coan't get google to translate it properly I can help The latest update was from last year (it has been whittled down to the few remaining products of which Hammerite is one) is here => http://www.oldtimerautosite.nl/updat...maart_2019.htm
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!) 1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project 1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build 1992 Mercedes 190E The car that works! |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Army For This Useful Post: |
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#6 | |
Senior Member
Last Online: May 19th, 2024 17:17
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: stranraer
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#7 | |
Junior Senior
Last Online: Yesterday 14:03
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Hampshire
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---------------------------------------------- Nice car - except for the fragile auto-box. |
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