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Flush or just oil change at 150k

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Old Mar 21st, 2021, 00:26   #1
hewking
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Default Flush or just oil change at 150k

hi
On Monday i am meeting with the seller of XC60 2012 215hrs for the final checks at my local garage. It is ex company car (so 0 owners on V5 which i found bizarre) and during 40min drive gearbox worked properly and car was powerful.
To my shock and disbelieve Volvo confirmed what i heard on forum that they do not normally change gearbox oil at 40-50k intervals so its impossible to say if the oil was ever changed!!! The good thing the car does not have a tow bar so no caravan was ever towed and most mileage are hopefully motorway mileage.

Hence my question - what would you do - just normal oil change or full flush.
I got advice on previous threads that there is company hortoncars that adds LUCAS Oil during oil change which i am also considering.
https://hortoncars.co.uk/latest-news...arbox-repairs/

Please advise me if you can. I find volvo forum amazing and very helpful.

Last edited by hewking; Mar 21st, 2021 at 00:47.
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Old Mar 21st, 2021, 06:14   #2
XC90Mk1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hewking View Post
hi
On Monday i am meeting with the seller of XC60 2012 215hrs for the final checks at my local garage. It is ex company car (so 0 owners on V5 which i found bizarre) and during 40min drive gearbox worked properly and car was powerful.
To my shock and disbelieve Volvo confirmed what i heard on forum that they do not normally change gearbox oil at 40-50k intervals so its impossible to say if the oil was ever changed!!! The good thing the car does not have a tow bar so no caravan was ever towed and most mileage are hopefully motorway mileage.

Hence my question - what would you do - just normal oil change or full flush.
I got advice on previous threads that there is company hortoncars that adds LUCAS Oil during oil change which i am also considering.
https://hortoncars.co.uk/latest-news...arbox-repairs/

Please advise me if you can. I find volvo forum amazing and very helpful.
It is extremly easy to do in the drive. You don’t even need to hack the vehicle up.

at those miles you don’t really want a ‘proper’ flush as you will be going from highly degraded fluid to brand new. My suggestion is to change out 2.7l (normal drain volume) each month or two.
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Old Mar 21st, 2021, 08:19   #3
hewking
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How many times shall i change it?
Straight away after purchase or maybe a week when i really know how the car is driving to spot the difference later?
Then once more after month or two ? or untill the colour of the break fluid is fresh?
Does my garage need any special funnels ? Would you add lucal oil as well?
Thanks for help!
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Old Mar 21st, 2021, 08:20   #4
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There have been many threads on this and I'm not sure there's an awful lot more to say. You've done the right thing and had an extended test drive, so buy the car and take a view as to how you want to proceed - you will get different opinions on here, but the info's all there to make a decision in your circumstances.
AIUI Horton uses Lucas when indicated by previous harsh shifting, as opposed to routinely adding it.
Quoting a mileage would be helpful for others.
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Old Mar 21st, 2021, 08:34   #5
hewking
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thanks for help i am bit stressed as the car is for my wife the volvo we are thinking of buying has 150k and 215hrs and during drive gears did shift properly. When i stopped the car and switched from rear to forward i could hear some thump but but when i pressed the brake more firmly i could not hear it any more when changing. Also i did this test on some slope which might invalidates the test
The car was really powerful and was really impressed how it pulls when i put foot down. A lot faster than my s60 2002 D5
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Old Mar 21st, 2021, 08:42   #6
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If thumping into Drive, then that is symptomatic, as indeed Horton's article states.
I personally would get a full change done as a matter of course - as I did buying exactly the same model with 110K miles on it, and which was giving exactly the same thump from time to time when moving into drive (and fortunately when Graham from Horton was driving it, too).
Technique is your call - I went to Horton for a machine change.
The gearbox settled down in the week after the change and is now fine afterwards.
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Old Mar 21st, 2021, 10:05   #7
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You will need a torx head drive socket. Do the TOP fill plug removal first so you don’t find you drain fluid then have an issue with the fill plug.

Under the level plug on the sump (torx) then the main drain head (hex head).

You will get approximately 2.7l of fluid out. It will be finished, black and toast. Then refil with 2.7 or what ever qty you remove. Wait a month and repeat. 4 times in total.

The gearbox has short adaptations and if you pull all the old stuff out and replace with new it may not work.
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Old Mar 24th, 2021, 13:36   #8
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Hewking,

Good choice of car by the way!

I had my autobox oil changed on my 14 plate S60 at 60k miles. I never tow anything and it leads a very easy life in terms of carrying weight etc. but the difference was night and day. So much smoother

It was done at the main dealer for £400, expensive but for something like a gearbox, i'd rather use the dealer.
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Old Mar 24th, 2021, 13:47   #9
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Hewking,

Good choice of car by the way!

I had my autobox oil changed on my 14 plate S60 at 60k miles. I never tow anything and it leads a very easy life in terms of carrying weight etc. but the difference was night and day. So much smoother

It was done at the main dealer for £400, expensive but for something like a gearbox, i'd rather use the dealer.
Did they drain and refill or use a machine to pump it through via the oil cooler?

Which dealer if you don't mind me asking?
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Old Mar 24th, 2021, 14:15   #10
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Did they drain and refill or use a machine to pump it through via the oil cooler?

Which dealer if you don't mind me asking?
I don’t believe any manufacturer or professional garage/gear box company would ever do a drain and refill manually by hand. The machines that these garages use to do a traditional flush are not expensive compared to others (couple of grand) and they allow a genuine flush to be done In under an hour (under 30mins for a volvo) as opposed to multiple hours by hand. They are also suitable for use across all vehicles and all platforms.

Doing a ‘sump dump’ refresh is a home mechanic in the drive technique. I swear on sump dumps, they are an excellent way to get lovely cherry red fluids with all new gaskets and o-rings for double figures. But they are just that, home mechanic based.

I got to the point (and still am) whereby I can drop the fluid, refil and be on with my day in sub 30 minutes. But with at least four of these required it would take your local garage 2 hours plus and from a fluid perspective it’s very wasteful.
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