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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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New (to me) 1980 Volvo 244Views : 2042149 Replies : 4092Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 12th, 2021, 12:09 | #2421 | |
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The recommended wear limit for snow tyres is 4mm - they are still perfectly legal right down to 1.6mm, but as you say, they become less effective in cold weather. What some people do is run them on as summer tyres when they get below 4mm, which works fine. I may do that next year - just run them on into the spring and summer, they will wear a bit quickly in the warm weather, but so what. I checked the date code on the Yokohama tyres this morn, they are 8 years old (since manufacture - they may well have sat on a shelf for 3 or 4 years) so I think one more season out of them would be reasonable. I only did about 3,000 miles during the winter). I've found some products by Smartseal to renovate my drive. One which is a biological agent that claims to break down oil deposits (I have quite a few from all the times I've changed engine and gearbox oils intending to be tidy but have always spilled a little). The other product is a re-sealer that rolls on to make it all black like new again. I've just started the preparation today by brushing on a bleach solution to kill all the moss and lichen, it is a big drive though (130m^2) so it takes a while. I'll get it pressure washed off over the next couple of days then try the two Smartseal products, then report back on how effective they are. :-)
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... another lovely day in paradise. Last edited by Othen; Apr 12th, 2021 at 12:11. Reason: Grammar. |
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Apr 12th, 2021, 12:34 | #2422 |
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Alan
I think you have decided to do this one way or another. And it might, partly, satisfy the desire to, tinker with, these things. Kushtie. It is I hope unlikey that having done so much, something else will fail within the engine. I well remember a crankshaft fracturing, breaking. But that, A Series, engine continued enough to limp, very noisily and slowly .... P.S. ... Your car aint broke !!!!! Stephen .
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Apr 12th, 2021, 12:41 | #2423 |
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I know :-)
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Apr 12th, 2021, 15:20 | #2424 |
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Go for it Alan!
My car isn't broke but that isn't stopping me from rebuilding the head and changing all of the gaskets on it Seeing as you're delving in to the block you might as well do the lot and know that you have a fully rebuilt engine that is going to problem free for many years to come. Bear in mind all of the gaskets, oil seals and belts will set you back in the region of £400 if you go with genuine Volvo. |
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Apr 12th, 2021, 18:05 | #2425 | |
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:-)
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Apr 13th, 2021, 10:53 | #2426 | |
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This approach might be ok on a ramp, but certainly isn’t a recipe for fun on a driveway with the car up on stands. Perhaps I’m getting old, but as much as I’m keen to tinker with cars I’m also keen to enjoy it and where I can avoid lying on the floor with rust falling in my eyes, trying to do something with limited access then I’ll take the easier route, to keep it fun and avoid it feeling like an arduous task. You may be over-thinking the engine out approach- it’s really very easy and quick, even single handed, with an engine hoist and a load leveller. Even with a break for coffee you should be able to get the engine out and on a stand in an hour or two, meaning the one day refresh of the rings etc should be doable within a long day- or two days, again to keep it fun. That’s my take on it anyway. Cheers |
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Apr 13th, 2021, 11:57 | #2427 |
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That's essentially how I feel too, 'Bugjam1999'! 50 odd years ago, I thought nothing of pulling a Mini engine and gearbox with a mate and a basic tripod and block'n'tackle, grabbing a wad and then slotting in it's replacement in a day, and then buying said mate a pint in the pub before closing time. But, as you so rightly say, age does have a habit of catching up on you. Now, I have no compunction about using a trusted garage to undertake those jobs that I am neither no longer able nor willing to do myself.
Alan clearly has relative youth and enthusiasm on his side, and I greatly respect what he has both achieved thus far and also has planned for the RB in the future. He also has the benefit of that lovely new engine hoist (which I would have given my Eye Teeth for back in the day) just crying out to be used! Let's not deny him that pleasure; besides, I'm also looking forward to enjoying it vicariously when he posts his report in this thread! Regards, John.
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Apr 13th, 2021, 12:27 | #2428 | ||
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Yes. And Alan. 1. You are itching to use that engine hoist. 2. However well you support a car, it is safer not to be underneath it hoisted off its wheels. I have done a similar job, using a pit. 3. You are itching to use that engine hoist. I think you have already decided to take the engine and transmission out ... Stephen .
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Apr 13th, 2021, 12:59 | #2429 | |
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The only difficult bit is removing the sump, but I think that is easier on an older model because the sump is shallower and the gear pump shorter? I have once removed and replaced a later sump, but I had to lower the cross member as far as the pipes etc would allow, and then do some nimble work dropping the oil pump with the sump in place and cutting the baffle plate once the sump was out in order to be able to replace the oil pump again. |
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Apr 13th, 2021, 13:16 | #2430 | |
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Thank you for the first hand experience of removing the sump in situ. The BofH gives the impression this is a very simple job: ... but it would appear to be rather more difficult than is the implication. That is exactly why I have asked the question amongst friends here. :-)
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